A big horn sheep rests along Bright Angel Trail - President's Day, 2010. (Photo: Brian Lane)

March Trail Conditions...
The snow is still falling and winter conditions remain in full force, but the sun is poised to return and warm things up by mid-March. Nonetheless trailheads remain snow packed and icy for the top couple of miles, so make sure you use crampons or cleats to ensure proper footing along these slick areas. Anyone trying to access South Bass trailhead is urged to drive the old mud rutted road only between the hours of 4-7 a.m., when the road is most likely to be frozen. Even then it is recommended you travel only in a four wheel drive vehicle equipped with a shovel, towing straps, tire chains, a winch, and the like.
 
Inner Canyon Camps Look Full...
Nearly all backcountry areas along the South Rim are completely full in March, April, and part of May (from Tanner Trail in the east, to Royal Arch to the west). If you want camp overnight inside the canyon and do not have a permit, you should go the Backcountry Information Center and put your name on the waiting list (although it could take a couple of days before a slot opens up). A few sites usually open up each day.

Toilet Talk...
Two new bathrooms have been installed along Bright Angel Trail. One in back of Three-Mile Resthouse, and another on the trail at the junction of Bright Angel and the River Trail, near the River Resthouse.

Another pilot program has begun at Grand Canyon NP for those camping in wilderness areas with no toilets - the WAG Bag program. In short, WAG Bags are human waste disposal bags where the backcountry traveler truly packs out everything that they pack in. To learn more or to volunteer for this pilot program to go: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/waste-mgmt.htm for more information.

Phantom Trip in February...
After having canceled my Rim-2-Rim plans of last October due to a death in the family I did manage to make it back to Arizona in time to go into the canyon on President's Day with my lifelong friend, John Ducasse. We hiked down Bright Angel Trail on Monday, February 15th, checked into the cabin, cleaned up, and had the famous "hiker stew" that evening for dinner. The next day we investigated Phantom Creek, hiking up North Kaibab a couple of miles, then rock hopping across Bright Angel Creek to enter Phantom Canyon. We visited the triple waterfall and bushwhacked along the narrow canyon until we could go no more as our progress was impeded by a six, or so, foot waterfall surrounded by slickrock. We turned around, grabbed some stuff at the canteen, then stretched our legs walking along the Colorado on the River Trail. After showers we dined on the Phantom Ranch "veggie chili" at the canteen. We spent our last night at Phantom Ranch amusing ourselves (and others) as we played "Pass the Pigs" at the canteen. On Wednesday morning we hiked up on South Kaibab Trail, taking about five hours to climb out at a nice leisurely pace. The El Nino patterned weather cooperated and was just perfect! Great weather, environment, and friends...it just doesn't get any better!

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Photo Illustration: "Fresh Snow" by Brian Lane

Back Home (and getting back into the proverbial saddle)
I arrived back to our Sedona home last week, just ahead of a wonderful Arizona winter storm. I have been away since mid-September helping with family matters back in central Massachusetts. Thanks to all who sent condolences and kind thoughts. They have been much appreciated.

Now it's time to get ready to go into the canyon next month. After being unable to get out and hike much in the snowy New England winter it will be nice to get back into better physical condition - the canyon often serving as my motivation. I especially love the winter months inside the Grand Canyon! It is so quiet in January and February. So different from the throngs of people that will arrive by mid-March and into April when the moderate temperatures entice spring breakers to venture throughout its depths. Winter brings its own special kind of peace to the canyon.

Last year I reserved a cabin (thirteen months in advance) at Phantom Ranch for President's Day and will be hiking down with one of my best friends from back in Massachusetts, John Ducasse. We grew up just a few houses away from each other, and we're the same age, so we high schooled together and wreaked minor havoc upon the populace in the little hamlet of North Brookfield together growing up. We've done lots of hiking and backpacking together, and it's always great to spend some time with an old (and getting older) friend.

In Other News...
On the fifth of January Park Rangers found the body of a lone male about 300 feet below a point called The Abyss along Hermit Road. The cause of death and the identity of the individual have yet to be ascertained.

Remember that the backcountry permitting system will be changing as of February 1st, 2010. Those wanting permits that become available four months prior must submit their request in writing - individuals can no longer receive a permit in-person at the Backcountry Information Center for trips starting four months out. All requests for permits must be submitted either by mail, fax, or in person, but they will be processed by random draw beginning at 5:00 p.m. on the 1st of the month for any trip beginning four months out. For example on February 1st, 2010 they will process permits for any overnight trip inside the canyon whose start date is in the month of June, 2010. See my post of November 30th for a link to more complete information.

Icy Trails...Remember too that anyone venturing inside the canyon during these winter months should be wearing cleats or crampons to avoid a slip and fall where snow and ice has accumulated near the rim (top) of the canyon. This ice can remain present until late March. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for trail closures and updates before going into the canyon.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Snow storm begins to clear along South Kaibab Trail (photo: Brian Lane)

The first significant snow storm for this late fall season 2009 is now approaching Northern Arizona. The chance for heavy snow along the rim increases to a 90% chance this Monday evening - December 7th through Tuesday the 8th. A chance for snow is forecast to continue throughout the week.

The Inner Canyon and Phantom Ranch will see temperatures near freezing with heavy rain forecast for Monday. Remember that Inner Canyon temps run about 20 degrees warmer from those along the rim, so it rarely snows at Phantom Ranch.

It is recommended that anyone hiking into the canyon wear crampons or cleats from now until spring to avoid slipping (and falling) on (or off) the trail. If need be, they can be purchased at the General Store at Market Plaza on the South Rim.  

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Light snow near Bright Angel Lodge (photo:Brian Lane)

Highway 67 to the North Rim Closes for Winter
On November 30th, 2009 Hwy 67, the main access road to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is scheduled to close for the winter. Most services have been closed since mid-October although the Park Service does allow winter camping on the North Rim but access is restricted to entry from either an Inner Canyon Trail or by snowshoeing about 45 miles from Jacob Lake (a valid backcountry permit is required). Needless to say, few campers opt to stay on the North Rim during the winter months. The road will reopen in mid-May 2010.

Permit Procedures Will be Changing in February 2010!
As of February 1st, 2010 all forth-month-out permit requests will be processed at random. Gone will be the days of standing in line on the first day of the month, four months prior to your starting date. Even if you walk in and hand your permit request to the ranger at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC) they will put it in a pile with other written and fax requests, then they will be pulled at random after 5:00 P.M. that day. So, the days of local residents and outfitters having the advantage of going to the BIC and getting a permit on the first of the month, four months prior will be gone. For more information please read the NPS press release at: http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/news_2009-11-20_procedure_change.htm

Another Canyon Death Reported
On November 28th the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received numerous calls from park visitors that a man had fallen from the canyon rim between Mather Point and Pipe Creek Vista. The body was eventually recovered about 200 feet below the South Rim. The man had been visiting the Canyon with his son, daughter-in-law, and other extended family members. The man's name is being withheld as family is notified and few details have yet been released. The National Park Service is investigating the incident.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

View from the Rim Trail after a November snow storm.
(Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)

On October 20th my father passed away from cancer. I will be remaining in Massachusetts for a little while to help my mom, and assist in settling dad's estate. During this time I will try to post any relevant information I receive that could help Grand Canyon hikers plan and execute their forays into yon canyon. Thanks to all who have responded during these trying times.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane

My apologies, but I will be unable to post new messages for the time being as I have been called away from our home in Arizona to assist my parents in Massachusetts in dealing with various medical issues. I know this is premier hiking season for the Grand Canyon and I too had a permit to venture Rim-2-Rim during mid-October, but alas, I will be unable to make the trip.  My father has terminal cancer and Mom is frail due to Parkinson's and I will need to provide whatever assistance I can during this trying time. I wish all canyon travelers well and hope to return to regular postings as soon as possible. I hope viewers of this little blog will be understanding.

Talk to you soon...

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane

Horseshoe Mesa seen from the top of Grandview Trail (photo: Brian Lane)

On Wednesday, September 9th, 2009 the body of a lone male, presumed to be that of missing hiker Andrew Brunelli was found by aerial searchers in a drainage off the Tonto Plateau. Mr. Brunelli, a 43 year old man from Clayton, North Carolina was first reported missing on the morning of Saturday, September 5th.

 

It was hotel staff at the Grand Canyon Inn, in Valle, Arizona (40 miles south of the park) that alerted the Coconino County Sheriff’s Office (CCSO) on September 4th that Mr. Brunelli had not checked out of his room as scheduled and personal items were still in his room. Workers reported that Mr. Brunelli was last seen at the hotel on August 30th, while the last known sighting of Brunelli was at 5:00 a.m. on August 31st, when he entered the park via the south entrance (Hwy 64). Further investigation revealed that Mr. Brunelli may have intended to go for a solo hike into the Grand Canyon.

 

Upon notification, the National Park Service (NPS) located the missing man's rental car at the Grandview Point parking area on September 5th. With no overnight permit and no other relative information to go on, the search initially focused on the more popular Grandview/Horseshoe Mesa/Hance Creek area of the Canyon, but to no avail, and some elements of the search were scaled back by September 8th.

 

As more information was received it was learned that Andrew had some previous experience day hiking the canyon. Investigators then found out from a co-worker that Mr. Brunelli may have been planning a more arduous hike during this trip. Provided that information, the NPS then broadened their search and rescue efforts beyond the original search area, (although the effort was still scaled back).

 

A park service helicopter crew spotted the body at 10:45 a.m., September 9th, in a drainage north of the Tonto Trail about two miles east of the South Kaibab Trail in the Pattie Butte vicinity (about 21 miles from Grandview Trailhead where his rental car was found). This area of the Tonto Plateau receives few summer visitors due to the long distances between reliable water sources, and can be difficult to navigate as the trail wends its way, up and down, across the drainages of Cremation and Lonetree (both usually dry) Creeks.

 

The body was retrieved via long-line operation (a fixed rope below the helicopter, as opposed to being hoisted up). The NPS and CCSO are conducting an investigation into the incident.

 

Inner Canyon temperatures continue to hover around the 100 degree mark, plus, this has been a DRY SUMMER in Arizona with very little precipitation during this year’s “Non-soon Monsoon.” Therefore, short-lived ephemeral springs or water sources should not be counted on to have water. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for the latest information on water availability in Grand Canyon before embarking on wilderness excursions.

 

To the best of my knowledge this is the sixth death of a Grand Canyon hiker this year, none of these individuals had a valid permit. Please obey the law and get a permit for overnight visits into the canyon. It costs very little and provides the NPS with vital information if, for any reason, you are reported missing.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

View from Yavapai Point up Bright Angel Canyon toward the
North Rim. (Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)

Month of August Remains HOT and DRY!
The southwest has been experiencing what most meteorologists are calling a Non-soon, in lieu of our regular summer Monsoon storms. Wildfires have been a constant threat as Northern Arizona has received many lightning strikes but little precipitation to quell the lightning caused fires. The Aspen Fire, east of the North Rim Lodge, is currently the worst wildfire in the area. Smoke may be visible from the Bright Angel and Roaring Springs Overlooks along the North Rim. All roads and facilities are reported to be open at this time. 

Temperatures have been fluctuating into the slightly cooler temps of late August, but the National Weather Service still predicts temperatures in the Inner Canyon to be staying into the 110 degree range through this weekend with little change in sight. Hot temps mean that hikers should take extra care to be off the trail and resting in the shade between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. - the peak hours of extreme heat. 

Another Inner Canyon Fatality Reported
On Thursday, August 13th a report came in to the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center from a group of river trippers stating that a party of seven hikers was stranded about halfway down Shinumo Wash. It was relayed that the hikers had run out of water and were in need of help. It was soon reported that one member of the hiking party, an 18 year old male, had died approximately one mile up canyon from the group. The river group assisted the hikers until they could be flown out to Hwy 89 where they were assisted by emergency personnel from the Navajo Nation. Little information has yet been released and a joint investigation into the incident will soon be conducted by the Navajo Nation and the National Park Service.

Where Have I Been?
A few people emailed and asked where I've been, since there have been few postings as of late. Well, my wife, best friend, and I were up enjoying the cool, wet, and massively majestic area around Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. A hikers paradise, Banff proved to be a wonderful get away from one of  the hottest Arizona summers in history. Thanks to the folks at Johnston Canyon Resort for providing a wonderful environment, as we rented a couple of small cabins there for the week. We hope to get back up there in the next few years and explore a bit more of Jasper National Park too!

Fine Art Prints Coming Soon!
Another thing that has been taking up a lot of my time recently is the introduction of my new line of fine art prints to my website. I will soon be offering some of my finest photo illustrations as fine art prints, including about 80 of my favorite landscapes from around the country. I will be printing them on 13"X19" canvas, suitable for framing, and issued in a limited edition of 500 signed prints each. The price has not yet been set, but I'm sure I can keep the price under $65.00. Check back soon at my website: www.aSenseofNature.com!

Fall Hiking Season Just Around the Corner!
Many new blog Items are sure to be posted soon, as the fall hiking season kicks into full gear by the end of September and I prepare for my own Rim-2-Rim backpack trip through the canyon in mid-October. Until then...

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

On the evening of Tuesday, July 21st, the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received a call from the father of 20 year old Northern Arizona University student Bryce Gillies, reporting that his son was overdue from a hike into the Grand Canyon. Original details were sketchy since the young man did not have a permit to stay overnight in the canyon, and the number of missing hikers was unknown. The Nat'l Park Service (NPS) immediately began an extensive search effort for what was initially thought to be a group of three or four. It was reported that Bryce Gillies and others had left on their trip into the Thunder River/Deer Creek area of the canyon after reading about the excursion in a magazine.

By the next day (Wednesday) the man's car was found at the Bill Hall Trailhead, and upon contacting and questioning Mr. Gillies friends, it was determined that he entered the canyon alone. The search effort then focused on locating a lone backpacker in the Deer Creek/Thunder River area off the North Rim of Grand Canyon Nat'l Park using ground and aerial searches to try and locate the missing man.

On Friday personal items belonging to Mr. Gillies were found in the Bonita Creek drainage, including his backpack. Around 9:30 a.m. on Saturday, July 25th searchers found the body presumed to be that of Bryce Gillies off-trail at the top of a 100 foot pour-off type cliff along the Bonita Creek drainage about one-half mile from the Colorado River. It is likely that Mr. Gillies died of exposure, heat related illness, and dehydration; a common combination that has killed many a summer hiker at the Grand Canyon.

Bonita Creek (a usually dry creek) is the next drainage west of Tapeats Creek (a perennially flowing creek which is also fed by Thunder River). It is unknown at this time if Mr. Gillies became disoriented and followed a spur trail into Bonita Creek, since there are many small off-shoot trails in Surprise Valley (where the trail splits between Deer Creek and Thunder River/Tapeats Creek). or, if suffering from dehydration he knowingly attempted to hike directly toward water at the Colorado River, not knowing that water was only about a mile away at Thunder River.

If Bryce Gillies had gotten a permit (which would have cost about $25), NPS officials would have known his itinerary and could possibly have located him earlier. Plus, with a permit, the NPS would have supplied a description of the trails, along with water sources and potential hazards. Most trails outside of the Central Corridor Trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab, and North Kaibab Trails) have LITTLE TO NO SIGNAGE at all (except for a trailhead marker). All trails outside of the Central Corridor are unmaintained, require advanced route finding skills, and it is up to the canyon hiker to know their own limitations - ESPECIALLY DURING TIMES OF EXTREME HEAT.

The brain is made up predominantly of water, so when hiking in the extreme heat of the canyon without enough water your brain begins to malfunction and you begin to make very bad decisions. At THE VERY LEAST one should carry a liter or more, per hour of hiking - including electrolytes - such as Gatorade). Without the proper amount of water and food one can quickly become overcome by the canyon's hot desert environment, and inner canyon temperatures at this time of year are about 100-115 degrees in the shade. Shade and/or water are few and far between, especially in the area where Mr. Gillies was hiking.
 
This is the second death at Grand Canyon this month. Condolences go out to the family and friends of Bryce Gillies for their loss.

Hike Smart or pay the consequences...
Brian

 
Yaki Point (Photo: Brian Lane)

1st Excessive Heat Warning of 2009
In mid-July of 2004 a 25 year old medical student from Falmouth, MA died inside the Grand Canyon from heat stroke and dehydration. Margaret Bradley had recently finished 30th in the 2004 Boston Marathon, was in excellent physical condition and in the prime of her life. Her mistake was in believing that she could outrun the canyon’s midday temperatures of over 105 degrees in the shade with little water.

Although criteria varies from state to state, an Excessive Heat Warning is usually issued by the National Weather Service (NWS) when temperatures are forecast to exceed 105 degrees, in the shade, for more than 3 hours per day, for 2 or more consecutive days, or if the heat index is forecast to exceed 115 degrees - the kind of extreme summer heat that is considered life threatening.

These temperatures are forecast during the next few days (possibly weeks) for Inner Canyon areas, including Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Remember that about 80 percent of SAR’s (search & rescue missions) at Grand Canyon National Park are due to heat related causes because of these intense desert temperatures.

What can be very deceiving for many people is when summer temps are in the 90’s on the South Rim, while inside the Grand Canyon at the Colorado River it is cooking at about 110 degrees or higher. No matter how good your conditioning and training regimen may be, these extreme temperatures will be debilitating unless you are fully prepared for it. Read the book Death in Grand Canyon, it illustrates this point to a tea.

Personally, I have never hiked inside the canyon between mid-May and late September, but if you must, please make sure you carry at least four to six liters of water going into the canyon, and you’ll need twice that coming back out. Make sure you are off the trail during the hours of most intense heat, between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. During times of high heat find shade and hunker down. Use Bright Angel Trail to access the Inner Canyon, at least there are shade areas and available water. Stay off of the South Kaibab Trail, since it has no water and very little shade. Consider hiking at night, and if you get hot, wet yourself down to cool quickly, and wear cotton as it drys slowly and helps keep you cooler longer. Always utilize electrolyte containing water additives (Gatorade and such), and eat salty snacks.

Although officially it is Arizona Monsoon Season – we haven’t really seen it yet in Northern Arizona. Afternoon clouds have been forming but there has been little moisture in the atmosphere, mostly virga. Never heard of virga? It is a common sight in the desert where you see the streams of moisture pulling down and away from clouds, yet no rain actually reaches the ground. This occurs when the atmosphere is so dry that rain turns to vapor before hitting the earth.

Man Drives Car into Canyon near El Tovar Lodge (think Chitty Chitty Bang Bang without the magic car)
On July 13th at about 6:00 a.m. visitors reported that a blue passenger car had just driven over the edge and into the canyon near El Tovar Lodge. The vehicle was caught up in some pine trees 600 feet below the South Rim and park officials eventually accessed the wreckage and located the lone male who had died in the incident. Eyewitnesses stated the male driver had driven his vehicle across the lawn area between Thunderbird and Kachina Lodges before going over the canyon’s edge. It appears to be a "Thelma & Louise" type of suicide, while the Park Service has only stated the incident is under investigation.

Grand Canyon Resident-Climber Does Not Defy Gravity
A Grand Canyon resident was on a recreational climb of Newton Butte on Monday, July 6th around 8:00 p.m. when he slipped and fell about 50 feet. Newton Butte is about 1.5 miles north of Shoshone Point. The man was rescued via short-haul operation and treated for non-life-threatening injuries to both legs. The individual’s name has not yet been released.

Hantavirus Kills River Runner
A Minnesota woman in her early 50’s passed away on June 12th, 2009 from what is confirmed by the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) as Hantavirus. She had recently been on a river rafting expedition in the Grand Canyon, where it is supposed that she contracted the disease. This is the first case of Hantavirus reported in the area since 2007. The virus is spread by rodents and infection occurs from breathing in small particles of urine or droppings from wild rodents. When camping in backcountry areas of the Grand Canyon try not to stir up a lot of dust, use a tent with a floor, and keep a clean camp to help avoid exposure.

Thank You to Everyone Who Stopped by During My Book Signing
I had my first book signing at Grand Canyon Nat'l Park on Saturday, June 27th. Thanks go out to all who took the time to stop by and say hello, especially those who purchased a copy of the book! Thanks also to the Grand Canyon Association for sponsoring the event, and to Diane and Konrad who worked at the store during the signing.
 
I haven’t been blogging much lately, as this really is not the season for most canyon backpackers, (save for a few crazy people). Even sales of my book slump a bit at this time of year as the thought of hiking inside an easy bake oven does not seem to appeal to the sane and well informed. Plus I will soon be getting away for a short time, hiking in the Canadian Rockies for the first time! Please re-visit the blog in mid-August and check out my brief trip report when I return.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian