Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog
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Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog
Arizona Monsoon Season 2009
Yaki Point with Cliff Rose (Photo: Brian Lane)
The 2009 Arizona Monsoon Season officially began on June 15th. That doesn't mean it’s going to rain any time soon. Since last year, instead of the monsoon beginning after three consecutive days with dew points over 55 degrees, the National Weather Service now officially schedules the Arizona Monsoon season from June 15th through September 30th. Although forecasters have said they believe the early Monsoon will include above average precipitation, it does not look like we will be rained upon, at least in the next week or so. There is still a slight chance of rain in the forecast.
Normal monsoon thunderstorms kick up when a high pressure system sets up over the four corners region of the Southwest and temperatures get hot, very hot. With the high pressure in place and daytime temperatures heading over one hundred degrees, moist air gets sucked up from the south, causing what can turn into, intense and lightning dense thunderstorms.
If you are on the rim of the Canyon during afternoon storms, head inside and wait out the worst of the storm. Luckily if you are caught outside at the bottom of the Grand Canyon lightning risks are only slight, as lightning opts to hit the easier reaches of the elevated and often struck rims. If you are ever caught out on the rim in a thunder and lightning storm, and you feel the hair stand up on the back of your neck, quickly get down into a squatting position, (and prayer wouldn't hurt).
By this weekend, June 20th, 2009 , the Nat’l Weather Service (NWS) is forecasting temps in the inner canyon’s Phantom Ranch area to hit close to 110 degrees in the shade. While we in the Southwest have thoroughly enjoyed the wonderfully cool temperatures we've had during the last month, we knew it had to end. And it is going to hit fast.
For the purpose of strategic redundancy, I’ll say it once again…BE SURE you are not out hiking in the Inner Canyon between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Hiking inside the canyon during the hottest time of the day, and you are asking to succumb to a heat related injury.
South Kaibab Trail Work
The Nat’l Park Service (NPS) has announced that they will begin (I actually thought they had already begun) scheduled trail work along the South Kaibab Trail. Work will include rebuilding steps, resurfacing, and replacing retaining walls along this popular trail. The trail reconstruction project will take two to four years to complete, and the trail will remain open during this reconstruction effort, (although occasional delays may occur). Mule and other stock traffic will be temporarily diverted to Bright Angel Trail during the reconstruction effort.
The Nat’l Park Service (NPS) has announced that they will begin (I actually thought they had already begun) scheduled trail work along the South Kaibab Trail. Work will include rebuilding steps, resurfacing, and replacing retaining walls along this popular trail. The trail reconstruction project will take two to four years to complete, and the trail will remain open during this reconstruction effort, (although occasional delays may occur). Mule and other stock traffic will be temporarily diverted to Bright Angel Trail during the reconstruction effort.
Fires Close the Arizona Trail at Grand Canyon
Two lightning caused fires are converging. The Ruby Fire and the Game Reserve Fire have been steadily merging and will now be combined and managed as the Ruby Complex Fire. A few days ago the Ruby Fire had reached the Arizona Trail, forcing a four mile section of the trail to be closed from Grandview Trailhead to Watson Tank. The NPS reports that there have been minimal impacts to Canyon views, although the smoke is clearly visible from Highways 64 and 180, and in some areas of the park.
As always, please remember to - Hike Smart & Have Fun !
Brian
Two lightning caused fires are converging. The Ruby Fire and the Game Reserve Fire have been steadily merging and will now be combined and managed as the Ruby Complex Fire. A few days ago the Ruby Fire had reached the Arizona Trail, forcing a four mile section of the trail to be closed from Grandview Trailhead to Watson Tank. The NPS reports that there have been minimal impacts to Canyon views, although the smoke is clearly visible from Highways 64 and 180, and in some areas of the park.
As always, please remember to - Hike Smart & Have Fun !
Brian
Early June '09 Update
Moran Point, South Rim (photo: Brian Lane)
Lots of News...
October 2009 Permits Come Up for Grabs
I know, I know; I have been remiss in posting a new blog entry - but, hey - I spent a few days at the Canyon securing a permit to go Rim-2-Rim in October, and I'm just getting back into the 'shwing' of things.
Last year I drove up to the Canyon on June 2nd and sites were already sold out for October. So this year my wife and I drove up on Saturday, May 30th, arriving at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC) around 4:30 p.m. I was given number 59 in line for permits being issued on June 1st, 2009, for overnight stays inside the Canyon during the month October 2009. On Sunday morning everyone already issued a number, that was still interested in getting a permit, checked in at 8:00 a.m. just outside the BIC. Due to attrition I was bumped up in line and drew number 50. Then on Monday morning, June 1st, at 8:00 a.m. they open three windows at the BIC to process permits. One window is reserved for folks who want a permit to go into the Canyon in the next few days, the other two windows are used to process permits for potential October backpackers. The process went pretty smoothly - the biggest complaint being a concern that private guides had paid locals to get numbers for the permit line several days in advance, and getting multiple permits, which initially slowed the processing down and ate up the number of available sites at the most precious camps. By the time my number was called I was able to secure the specific dates I wanted, and had spent a delightful weekend taking pictures along the South Rim of the world's most spectacular canyon. Rumor has it that next year the NPS at Grand Canyon may go to a lottery type system for backcountry permits. We'll see.
Thanks to Hans & Jen from Tucson, new friends I met while standing in the permit line. It was great meeting you both, and getting to talk with you made the chore of waiting much more enjoyable. Another hello goes out to Ron Ramsey, a fellow Sedonan I recognized on Sunday morning. It was great to see you again; I want to see some of your canyon photos sometime.
Supai Opens
On June 1st, 2009, Supai Village finally opened its proverbial doors to the public after last August's horrific flood which caused most of the village, and all of the visiting tourists to be evacuated by helicopter when an old earthen dam broke miles away up on the canyon rim during a monsoon rain storm. The massive wall of water tore down into Havasu Canyon wiping out many sections of the trail and nearly all of the campground. It also reshaped the world renowned waterfalls, completely destroying Navajo Falls while creating two new and distinct waterfalls which are yet to be named. The re-opening was also delayed for a month by the Havasupai Tribe due to the H1N1 (Swine) Flu outbreak. Jamie Compos has some of the first photo I've seen on his website at: www.downthetrail.com. Look under the Recent Posts link.
Weather
We in the Southwest have been given a wonderful reprieve from the hot temps of early May. Phoenix broke the record for consecutive days over 100 degrees in the first half of May, and we all braced for a hot, hot summer. Then, weather came in from California and it actually rained! May is usually one of our driest months, so nearly three inches of rain in Northern Arizona was a wonderful and unexpected treat. Since that time the Southwest has stayed consistently about ten degrees below average. We've been having a kind of pre-monsoonal odd pattern of sunny mornings with clouds building in the afternoons, and a slight chance of thunderstorms that decreases around sunset. While Inner Canyon temperatures are now mid-80's, with nights in the 60's, it looks like temps will be heading back into the 100's next week (mid-June). Those venturing into the Canyon should be prepared for temperatures to return to normal soon, that means Canyon hikers should be off the trail during the hottest time of day (10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.), or risk succumbing to heat related illness.
Fires
The May rains have helped keep the wildfires to a minimum so far during this fire season. That said, there are a few, small, lightning caused fires currently being monitored. One on the North Rim near Point Imperial, and two in the Grandview area of the South Rim. Smoke will be visible in these areas until the fires are completely extinguished.
Man Dies on Hermit Trail
Robert Williams of Surprise, Arizona was reported missing on May 26th after not returning home from a Memorial Day weekend at the Canyon. The body of the 69 year old man was subsequently found on June 2nd, about 200 feet below Hermit Trail, approximately a quarter mile south of Santa Maria Spring. Searchers had focused on Hermit Basin after receiving tips from other hikers and visitors. The cause of death has yet to be determined.
Woman Falls at Mather Point
A 38 year old, un-named woman was rescued on June 4th after falling about 50 feet from one of the Mather Point viewing areas. Mather Point is the busiest, and most congested areas at Grand Canyon National Park and the accident was reported by at least two witnesses who saw the woman fall. She was lifted via litter and rope haul, and transported to the Flagstaff Medical Center for non-life-threatening injuries.
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian
North Rim Opens 2009 (and other Mid-May Updates)
South Bass Beach (photo: Brian Lane)
I'm a little late on this entry as my 'puter croaked last week after downloading a graphics driver update, it had to be wiped clean, so it's just like starting over again, fresh and clean as a whistle. Oh well, here are some of the recent goings on at the Canyon...
North Rim Opens
On last Friday, May 15th, at 7:00 a.m., the gate was unlocked, allowing visitors onto Route 67, the main access road to the North Rim. All facilities are now open and will remain so until October 15th, 2009. Lodging reservations at the North Rim can be made through Forever Resorts by calling (877) 386-4383 or by visiting their website at www.grandcanyonforever.com. The North Rim is a much different experience than the hectic South Rim, seeing about one-tenth the amount of visitors. Although the facilities close in mid-October the Park Service continues operating the North Rim Visitor Center, the bookstore, and the Backcountry Permit Office through November 30, (unless snow closes Highway 67 before that date).
Prescribed Fires
The South Entrance into Grand Canyon Nat'l Park could be quite smoky due to some prescribed burn type fires going on in the area. We are being told that these fires could continue for many weeks.
Summer Type Heat is Here
Temperatures for the Inner Canyon are currently in the 100-110 degree range, although they may moderate a bit as there is a possibility of passing storms this week. With summer temps coming on strong be sure to be off the trail between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. or risk overheating, (and the very real possibility of succumbing to heat exhaustion or heat stroke). Deaths occur every year from heat exposure as people do not realize that when temps on the Rim are in the 90's the temperatures are 20 degrees hotter along the Inner Canyon. Anyone venturing into the Canyon in the summer should consider hiking at night to protect from heat related illnesses.
Canyon Water Availability
All available water along the Central Corridor Trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab, & North Kaibab Trails), including water at the trailheads, has now been turned on. With little rain in the Southwest recently, ephemeral water supplies in the greater canyon area should not be relied upon. Contact the Backcountry Information Center for water availability on remote trails and canyons.
Bodies Recovered from Colorado River
Two bodies were recovered from the river on Thursday afternoon, May 14th. The bodies are presumed to be those of 16 year-old Saif Savaya, and 22 year-old Joey Merrill. These were the other two, of three, who inexplicably jumped into the Colorado River on April 30th, 2009, near the Black Bridge, across form the Phantom Ranch Boat Beach. The bodies were found a few river miles west of Boucher Rapids, over ten miles from where they had entered the river. One was found by private boaters, and the other, approximately 2.5 miles down river from the first, was found by a commercial river expedition. Please read earlier posts for more information on this tragic occurrence.
As always...
Hike Smart and Have Fun!
Brian
Mule Accident on Bright Angel Trail Injures One
A 66 year old woman from California on a scheduled over night mule trip to Phantom Ranch was injured on Bright Angel Trail at about 9:00 a.m. on Tuesday, May 5th. A mule wrangler with Xanterra (the authorized mule concessioner), reported that the mule had lost its footing and had fallen, rolling over the female rider in the process. The accident happened about a half mile up the trail from the Three Mile Resthouse. The patient was airlifted via a short haul from the Canyon and flown to Flagstaff Medical Center for treatment of her injuries. Bright Angel Trail was closed for about one hour during the rescue operation. The extent of the victim's injuries are unknown.
Brian
Brian
Follow-Up on Three People Missing in the Colorado River
It was reported last Thursday (April 30th) that three individuals had jumped into the Colorado River near the Boat Beach at Phantom Ranch. One body was found on Friday, May 1st, about one mile downstream from the Boat Beach. The body has been identified as 16 year old Mark Merrill. Still missing and presumed dead are his 22 year old brother Joey Merrill, and 15 year old Saif Savaya.
The individuals were members of a church group of about thirty people on an annual 3-day hike trip into the Grand Canyon from the Tri-City Baptist Church in Tempe, Arizona. Soon after the incident, the other members of the group returned to Tempe. No details or explanations have yet been given as to the circumstances for these tragic and needless deaths.
Wearing no wet suits and without personal flotation devices of some kind, anyone entering into the swift current of the Colorado River, (with water temperatures between 45- 50 degrees), are almost certainly facing death. The Park Service employed a massive search effort along ten river miles, from the Boat Beach to Hermit Rapids, to no avail. Late Saturday (May 2nd) the active search had been scaled back to a recovery effort.
Thoughts and prayers go out to the family members as many questions remain as to how and why these young men entered the river and ultimately perished.
Brian
The individuals were members of a church group of about thirty people on an annual 3-day hike trip into the Grand Canyon from the Tri-City Baptist Church in Tempe, Arizona. Soon after the incident, the other members of the group returned to Tempe. No details or explanations have yet been given as to the circumstances for these tragic and needless deaths.
Wearing no wet suits and without personal flotation devices of some kind, anyone entering into the swift current of the Colorado River, (with water temperatures between 45- 50 degrees), are almost certainly facing death. The Park Service employed a massive search effort along ten river miles, from the Boat Beach to Hermit Rapids, to no avail. Late Saturday (May 2nd) the active search had been scaled back to a recovery effort.
Thoughts and prayers go out to the family members as many questions remain as to how and why these young men entered the river and ultimately perished.
Brian
Search Underway for Three People Missing in the Colorado
View from the Black Bridge across the Boat Beach toward the Silver Bridge (photo: Brian Lane)
Three individuals who were reported to have jumped into the Colorado River at about 8:45 a.m. on Thursday, April 30th, 2009, have yet to be found. Two emergency calls were received by the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center at Grand Canyon Nat'l Park. One call emanated from Phantom Ranch and the other from the Boat Beach emergency phone at the confluence of the Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek. Witnesses said they had seen three people jump into the Colorado River near the Boat Beach. They were last seen being swept downriver.
After being interviewed by Park Service investigators, the group that was hiking with the missing individuals, (including family members), were flown back up to the South Rim. They were reportedly with the individuals at the time of the accident, but no additional information has been made publicly available, save for the statement that none of the three were wearing personal flotation devices.
One should NEVER attempt to swim the Colorado River, or enter into the river much further than ankle deep. Although rather placid looking in the Boat Beach area, the Colorado River is a massive and swift moving river, which maintains a cold temperature of about 50 degrees due to the Glen Canyon Dam where water is released from the more frigid bottom of the dam. Hypothermia can quickly set in, draining a person's energy. And even if someone makes it to a bank of the river there are few access points where someone could climb out.
The Park Service is currently conducting what sounds like a massive search - employing search units on foot, in zodiac boats, by air, and including search dogs. Hopes and prayers go out to all those involved.
Brian
May, 2009 Updates
View near the Tonto Trail between South Kaibab & Bright Angel Trails. Bright Angel Canyon and Phantom Ranch can be seen on the left, while the Kaibab (Black) Bridge crosses the river near the center of the photo. (Photo: Brian Lane)
Overview
Inner Canyon temperatures are fluctuating between wonderfully pleasant and hot. The difference being day and night temps - days in the mid-nineties, with nights near 60 degrees. This weekend may bring thunderstorms on Saturday as the Nat'l Weather Service is setting the chance for rain at 60 percent. The heat will soon return with temps near 100 degrees by mid-week (May 6th, 2009).
Havasupai Still Closed Until June 1st
Havasu Canyon will remain closed until (at least) June 1st, 2009. The Havasupai Tribe recently announced that the Havasu area will stay closed during the month of May due to the Swine Flu outbreak. The canyon has been closed since the flood of last August which wiped out large portions of the trail and campground. It had been scheduled to reopen on May 1st.
Good Trail Eats - The Backcountry Bar
I recently purchased a few of Karie Jean - The Cookie Queen's Backcountry Bars for my recent trip into the Canyon. I have to say that they are the best tasting energy bars I have ever had. Tasting like a nutty peanut butter cookie with ingredients including: rolled oats, peanut butter, brown sugar, mixed dried fruit, mixed nuts, eggs, butter, pumpkin kernels, sunflower, flax, and sesame seeds, honey, baking soda, and vanilla, they are an excellent source of nutrition for Canyon hikers. They do have a higher fat content than Cliff Bars, but oooh, the taste. Try them out, I don't think you'll be disappointed. For more info visit Karie Jean's website at www.cookie-queen.com.
Hiker Rescued from Grandview Trail
On April 29th,2009, a 47 year old hiker from Ohio traveling down the Grandview Trail stopped to check out the view, lost his balance and fell about 60 feet. He and his companions were several hundred feet down the trail, headed for their designated camp at Cottonwood Creek (west of Grandview) when the mishap occurred. The accident happened about 3:20 p.m. and a visitor at the trailhead heard their calls for help and notified the Park Service. The man was air lifted from the Canyon; his injuried are not known at this time.
NPS paramedic Bonnie Taylor with injured Ohio man during the short-haul rescue operation. (NPS Photo)
As Always...
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian
Late April Update
Redbud Tree in Bloom - Side Canyon off Bright Angel Trail
(photo by Brian Lane)
Overview
The Canyon has dried out for the most part as any remaining vestiges of snow have melted away from nearly all trails, save for the top portions of North Kaibab and a few small icy spots along Grandview, New Hance, and Tanner Trails. Phoenix hit 102 degrees a couple of days ago, this is about three weeks earlier than average, and a quick reminder of the summer heat soon to come. Temperatures have moderated a bit and a brief storm may hit Northern Arizona this weekend, dropping temps even further, with night time temps around the freezing mark on the South Rim, but with only a slight chance of showers. Inner Canyon temperatures will then rebound into the 80's during the last week of April and into May.
Drinking Water Along the Central Corridor (Bright Angel, South Kaibab & North Kaibab Trails)
As of April 23rd, drinking water is only available at 3-Mile Resthouse on Bright Angel Trail, at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, Cottonwood Campground, and Roaring Springs Day Use Area. No water is ever available along South Kaibab Trail. Hikers should always carry some kind of water purification method or device, since water pipe breaks can occur at any time of the year.
Other Backcountry Water Sources
Many ephemeral springs are still flowing in the backcountry, but as we move toward summer they will quickly dry out. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for water availability updates since most remote water sources, other than the Colorado River, can never be depended upon.
North Rim Scheduled to Open Soon
Barring any unforeseen circumstances Highway 67 to the North Rim is expected to re-open on May 15th, 2009. All services and facilities should be operating by that time - but until then the North Rim of Grand Canyon Nat'l Park is not accessible to vehicles.
www.aSenseofNature.com
Please visit my website to see the changes! A whole new site has been rolled out with many added features. Although there are still some changes to be made, it is a breath of fresh air in comparison to the old clunky site. Thanks go out to Mitch Daugherty of Morange Design for all the work putting the site together! Clicking on the orange colored "Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog" heading above will open a new window to the new and improved site.
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian
Tonto Trip - April 18-19, 2009
Plateau Point Sunset (photo by Brian Lane)
Last Sunday I enjoyed a relatively easy one night jaunt into the Canyon with friend and award-winning photographer Larry Lindahl (www.LarryLindahl.com). We wanted to take some photographs of cactus in spring bloom along the Tonto Plateau between South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trail, and then out to Plateau Point for sunset photos. Camping one night at Indian Garden gave us time to rest while providing a pleasant hike out along Bright Angel Trail on Monday morning.
While the plan was sound, the cactus proved uncooperative. We were about a week early for the most prolific blossoms, as the prickly pear cacti were ripe but had few open blooms. But it didn’t really matter, it was a beautiful day and we made our way over toward Indian Garden, out to Plateau Point for sunset, and subsequently enjoyed a cool and pleasant hike up Bright Angel Trail the next morning.
I took plenty of photos, as did Larry, during this quick overnight trip. And it was a nice journey, with no rushing about, the kind of trip that we both had hoped to enjoy. It allowed us to savor the Canyon while poking around its vast landscapes, taking in all the Grand Canyon has to offer.
Some highlights of the trip included sunset at Maricopa Point the night before descending into the Canyon, the descent down South Kaibab, finding two stone "alters" while hiking around the plateau off the Tonto Trail, a huge freshly leaved cottonwood tree at Burro Creek, lunch at Pipe Creek, sunset at Plateau Point, a fully bloomed redbud tree in a side canyon off Bright Angel Trail, and talking with folks as we hiked out. And as always, I appreciated Larry’s company. After years of solo hiking in the Canyon it is great to have a compatible hiking partner, while at the same time hiking with others has helped to relieve the anxiety my wife would normally feel when I was traveling alone in the Canyon.
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian
April is here...a busy time at the Canyon!
West Tonto Trail with Prickly Pear Cactus (photo:Brian Lane)
Temperatures...
It has been very windy as of late, with wind gusts reported up to 60 mph in Northern Arizona. Inner Canyon temperatures will be in the 70's up to the mid-80's during the day as the heat starts to build toward summer's hot, hot temps. Overnight temps will hover around mid-40's with a chance of freezing still in the forecast during colder spells. There is still a good chance of snow on the Rim as a few scattered storms are on the weather horizon.
Trail and Road Conditions...
Grandview, New Hance, and Tanner Trails still have sporadic snow and ice in their upper reaches. All other South Rim trails are snow free at this time, although ice may reform after night temps refreeze muddy or watery areas. North Kaibab Trail is snow packed from the Rim to below Supai Tunnel. Highway 67 with access to the North Rim is still closed and will reopen on May 15th, 2009. There is access to the South Bass Trailhead as the road is reported to be dry, but deeply rutted. Those trying to get to the trailhead for Deer Creek, Thunder River, and Monument Trail will find the road impassable in sections due to snow and ice accumulation.
Drinking Water...
The only potable water available in the Canyon is at Indian Garden, Bright Angel, and Roaring Springs. All other sources are still shut off for the winter. Springs and creeks have been flowing with snow melt but may begin to show signs of slowing as precipitation has curbed as of late. The National Park Service (NPS) has released a public notice concerning water turbidity (siltation and other floaties in the water) due to the spring snow melt. This is an annual event and the NPS says that it should pose no health problems.
South Kaibab Shuttle Bus...
The Hiker Express Shuttle to South Kaibab Trailhead is running at 6:00, 7:00, and 8:00 a.m. during April. This shuttle can be boarded at the Bright Angel Lodge Bus Stop or in front of the Backcountry Information Office. Otherwise hikers can use the regular buses to gain access to the trail.
Tusayan to Grand Canyon Nat'l Park Shuttle Bus Pilot Program Announced...
The NPS has announced a new shuttle bus program between the town of Tusayan (just south of the park entrance on Hwy 64) and the Canyon View Information Plaza. The free service will be available between May 16th through September 13th, 2009. Buses will be running every 15 minutes between the hours of 8:00 a.m. and 9:30 p.m. There will be four bus stops in Tusayan including the IMAX Theater, the Squire Inn, Grand Canyon Airport, and Canyon Flight Trading Company.
South Kaibab Trail Reconstruction...
Beginning in May, the NPS will be working on the South Kaibab Trail including trail resurfacing, retaining wall maintenance, trail stabilization and preventative maintenance, and other issues. The work is scheduled to continue for two to four years. The trail should remain open during this time.
Mule Dies on Black (Kaibab) Bridge...
In sad news, it has been reported that a mule passed away while crossing the Black Bridge on Saturday, April 4th, 2009. Visitors stated that the mule was part of passenger service just heading up the Canyon from Phantom Ranch. The mule died on the bridge and was airlifted via helicopter out of the Canyon. By all accounts the passenger was uninjured and was provided a free helicopter ride (including their spouse) out of the Canyon. It is unclear whether or not they were strapped to the dead mule or provided a separate helicopter.
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian
