View from the top of Cathedral Stairs, Hermit Trail
Photo Illustration by Brian Lane.

First Excessive Heat Warnings of the Season

The first heat wave is poised to hit the Inner Grand Canyon this Saturday, June 5^th, 2010 and the National Weather Service (NWS) has issued a Hazardous Weather Outlook for the weekend. The NWS may also issue its first Excessive Heat Warning of 2010 in the next couple of days as temperatures for the Inner Grand Canyon could reach as high as 110 degrees by Monday. These "dog days" of summer will last from now until early September, although the Arizona Monsoon Season (June 15th - September 30th) and its pattern of thunderstorms can offer temporary afternoon relief.

Excessive heat is the number one weather related killer in the U.S. with more than 1,500 people dying each year from heat associated situations. After blisters, this is the most common malady in the canyon, bar none. Initial symptoms include headache, pale and sweaty skin, cramps, nausea and vomiting, and fatigue. The symptoms usually progress as water loss increases. If not treated, your skin will turn red and hot and you will soon become disoriented, irritable, combative and ultimately unconscious.

Remember that the human body is 60% water and a canyon hiker can lose 20% of that water in one day of hiking, (or about 12 to18 pounds, which is equal to about 1.5 to over 2 gallons of water). The chronological order of heat related injury for the average person goes something like this: After sweating about 2% of your body weight your thirst mechanism is triggered. At 3% your performance is reduced by about 10%. Around 3 to 4% loss and heat exhaustion and muscle cramps set in. Then, at about 5%, your body begins losing a severe amount of muscle strength and endurance and you begin to make really bad decisions. By the time your body has lost 6 to 9% of its water weight, incapacitation sets in and you are unable to stand. Next comes the onset of total delirium and coma, when you reach 20% you are gone. Anyone choosing to hike into the canyon during periods of high heat should make sure to heed the following safety rules...

1). Avoid Strenuous Activities

Do not hike inside the canyon during the hottest time of day, between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.  Find a cool shady place to rest until temps moderate. Consider hiking at night, especially when the moon will provide some illumination.

2). Stay Out of the Direct Sun

Exposure to full sunshine increases your own personal "heat index" by about 15 degrees. Plus the fact that getting a sunburn makes the cooling process much more difficult.

3). Dress Accordingly

Wear loose, lightweight and light colored clothing, preferably cotton since cotton stays wet longer and therefore keeps you a bit cooler for a longer period of time. I like to keep a wet cotton hanky or neckerchief around my neck to help cool too.

4). Eat Accordingly

Avoid heavy proteins that increase water loss and also increase metabolic body heat production. Consume more carbohydrates and simple sugars for energy.

5). Drink Lots of Water

Start drinking extra water a few days before your trip and drink sport drinks with electrolytes a couple of hours before you begin your hike and while on the trail. Sport drinks containing electrolytes help keep your body chemistry balanced when sweating a lot. Especially in the summer season you will need to drink nearly a quart of water and/or sport drink for every hour of hiking. Drink enough fluids that your urine runs clear and avoid alcohol or caffeine, and consult your physician if taking antihistamines or antidepressants. Don't take salt tablets unless directed by your doctor.

** If you find yourself or someone else in your group suffering from the heat be sure to have them rest in a cool, shady spot. Slowly drinking copious amounts of water and/or sport type drinks can help. If symptoms progress, aggressive cooling is required so spray the victim with cool water and fan them while massaging muscle cramps as needed. Evacuate immediately if incapacitated. **


Hike Safe & Have Fun!

Brian on Tanner Trail
Photo by: Larry Lindahl
www.larrylindahl.com

        Yaki Point, Grand Canyon National Park. Photo Illustration: Brian Lane
Available as a limited edition fine art print on canvas signed by Brian - go to www.aSenseofNature.net

North Rim of Grand Canyon Now Open
The quiet North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park was officially opened last Saturday, May 15th at 7:00 a.m., when the Arizona Department of Transportation unlocked the gate at Route 89A and Route 67, a forty mile drive which leads to the Park's North Entrance. All roads are now cleared of snow and ready for traffic, although there is still about 35% snow coverage on the ground. The North Rim receives about one-tenth the number of visitors than the South Rim, and while a visit to the South Rim is said to average six hours, time spent by visitors at the North Rim averages three days. North Rim services will remain open until mid-October of 2010. Just to let you know, there will be prescribed burns in the North Rim area during the next thirty days.

All South Rim Trails Now Clear of Snow, but...
All South Rim trails are reportedly clear of snow and ice, but trails on the North Rim (1,000 feet higher in elevation from the South Rim) including portions of the Arizona Trail, Nankoweap trailhead access, and many other trailhead access roads may still be covered with 1-2 feet of snow. Access to Point Sublime from the W-1 Road may not come about until mid-June, so plan accordingly.

Central (Cross-Canyon) Corridor Water Availability
Water along the central corridor trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab & North Kaibab Trails) is now available at all cross canyon water spigots, except for Supai Tunnel on the North Kaibab. Water sources along wilderness trails are quickly drying so make sure you check with the Backcountry Information Center for updates to ephemeral water availability.

Central Corridor (Inner Canyon) Campgrounds Full in May
Bright Angel, Indian Garden, and Cottonwood Campgrounds along the cross-corridor are reporting 100% full during May and 95% full during the month of June. Permits for late June, July, and August are readily obtainable - because most people do not enter the canyon during these times of extreme heat (average of over 100 degrees in the shade) plus the Arizona Monsoon Season (officially from June 15th - September 30th) brings violent thunderstorms with the accompanying danger from lightning and flash floods.

Temperatures Flirt with the 100 Degree Mark
It has been a nice, reasonably comfortable spring season at the Grand Canyon. Inner Canyon temperatures, on average, reach 100 degrees in early May. So far we've held it off but the Nat'l Weather Service projects that temperatures at Phantom Ranch will reach close to 100 degrees by this Friday, May 21st followed by another brief cool down. Remember to be off the trail between the hours of 8:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. during times of extreme heat.

A Safe Year, so far...
No deaths , (save for a couple of apparent suicides), have been reported yet this year. 2009 had many people succumb to various tragedies including suicides, drownings, heart attacks, hantavirus, and heat related deaths. An average of twelve people die at Grand Canyon National Park annually and during last year it seemed that every few weeks a new misfortune and befallen a canyon visitor. Hopefully this year will remain a safe and happy one for all visitors to this magical place. 

Hike Safe and Have Fun!
Brian "Hikernut" Lane

 "Spring Arrives," Redbud in bloom off Bright Angel Trail. (Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)
Available as a limited edition fine art print on canvas signed by Brian - go to www.aSenseofNature.net


Trail Conditions - April 30th, 2010:
Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails are (finally) mostly snow and ice free, and the Nat'l Park Service (NPS) is no longer recommending cleats or crampons be worn. On the upper sections of North Kaibab (above Supai Tunnel) the NPS is still recommending crampons as there is still snow, ice, and rockfalls that have not yet been cleared from the trail. Although the snow is melting fast, traction devices are also still needed on Grandview and possibly on Tanner Trail.

Water Availability:
Drinking water is again available at Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground as of April 22nd. The water pipeline break has been repaired. Along the Central Corridor (Bright Angel, South & North Kaibab Trails) water is only available at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, Phantom Ranch, and Cottonwood Campground at this time. All other water sources are still turned off. Other ephemeral water sources are beginning to dry out, check with the Backcountry Information Center for up to date information on potential backcountry water availability.

North Rim Set to Open:
The gate for Route 67 (at Jacob Lake) to gain access to the North Rim will be unlocked and opened by the Arizona Dept. of Transportation on Saturday, May 15th, 2010 at 7:00 a.m. Concessions will open after 10:00 a.m., and lodging check-in will start at 4:00 p.m. North Rim facilities include lodging, food service, camper services, and the gas station.

Weather:
Cool temperature are still the norm, especially on the rim, with lows at night in the 20 degree range. Inner Canyon temps are mid-40's at night with daytime temps warming from the mid-60's and into the 90's by early May.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!

Brian

Prickly Pear Cactus in April Bloom. Photo Illustration: Brian Lane
Available as a limited edition fine art print on canvas signed by Brian - go to www.aSenseofNature.net

This winter the Grand Canyon received the most snow they have seen in the last quarter century. The Nat’l Park Service (NPS) at Grand Canyon is therefore still advising hikers to use trekking poles and traction devices, (cleats or crampons) while hiking the upper reaches of Bright Angel, South Kaibab and Grandview Trails. Tanner Trail isn’t too icy but the snow is still about three feet thick at the top. Most of the other trails along the South Rim are free enough of snow and ice to be reasonably navigated without cleats, these include New Hance, Hermit, and South Bass Trails. Access to South Bass Trailhead via Forest Road 328 is passable, but 4-wheel drive is recommended. The North Rim is still closed and snow on the North Kaibab Trail is many feet thick above Supai Tunnel.

Drinking water is currently not available at Bright Angel Campground or Phantom Ranch due to a pipeline break that occurred on April 13th. You should always carry a water treatment system of some kind when traveling the Inner Canyon, even when drinking water is supposed to be available, since the pipeline breaks quite often.

Inner Canyon temperatures are fluctuating wildly, (which is usual for spring in Northern Arizona), with daytime temps varying from the mid-60's to low 90's, and nighttime temps from the mid-40's to the mid-60's. A chance of showers is still around, (usually by May the showers stop and the heat begins to dominate).

Remember that parking at the canyon has changed. When entering the park visitors can no longer drive up to Mather Point (historically the first view many visitors would take in). Now you must park at Canyon View Information Plaza to walk over to Mather Point. The Info Plaza is also the bus hub for the Village Route and the Kaibab Trail Route shuttle buses.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!

Brian

A big horn sheep rests along Bright Angel Trail - President's Day, 2010. (Photo: Brian Lane)

March Trail Conditions...
The snow is still falling and winter conditions remain in full force, but the sun is poised to return and warm things up by mid-March. Nonetheless trailheads remain snow packed and icy for the top couple of miles, so make sure you use crampons or cleats to ensure proper footing along these slick areas. Anyone trying to access South Bass trailhead is urged to drive the old mud rutted road only between the hours of 4-7 a.m., when the road is most likely to be frozen. Even then it is recommended you travel only in a four wheel drive vehicle equipped with a shovel, towing straps, tire chains, a winch, and the like.
 
Inner Canyon Camps Look Full...
Nearly all backcountry areas along the South Rim are completely full in March, April, and part of May (from Tanner Trail in the east, to Royal Arch to the west). If you want camp overnight inside the canyon and do not have a permit, you should go the Backcountry Information Center and put your name on the waiting list (although it could take a couple of days before a slot opens up). A few sites usually open up each day.

Toilet Talk...
Two new bathrooms have been installed along Bright Angel Trail. One in back of Three-Mile Resthouse, and another on the trail at the junction of Bright Angel and the River Trail, near the River Resthouse.

Another pilot program has begun at Grand Canyon NP for those camping in wilderness areas with no toilets - the WAG Bag program. In short, WAG Bags are human waste disposal bags where the backcountry traveler truly packs out everything that they pack in. To learn more or to volunteer for this pilot program to go: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/waste-mgmt.htm for more information.

Phantom Trip in February...
After having canceled my Rim-2-Rim plans of last October due to a death in the family I did manage to make it back to Arizona in time to go into the canyon on President's Day with my lifelong friend, John Ducasse. We hiked down Bright Angel Trail on Monday, February 15th, checked into the cabin, cleaned up, and had the famous "hiker stew" that evening for dinner. The next day we investigated Phantom Creek, hiking up North Kaibab a couple of miles, then rock hopping across Bright Angel Creek to enter Phantom Canyon. We visited the triple waterfall and bushwhacked along the narrow canyon until we could go no more as our progress was impeded by a six, or so, foot waterfall surrounded by slickrock. We turned around, grabbed some stuff at the canteen, then stretched our legs walking along the Colorado on the River Trail. After showers we dined on the Phantom Ranch "veggie chili" at the canteen. We spent our last night at Phantom Ranch amusing ourselves (and others) as we played "Pass the Pigs" at the canteen. On Wednesday morning we hiked up on South Kaibab Trail, taking about five hours to climb out at a nice leisurely pace. The El Nino patterned weather cooperated and was just perfect! Great weather, environment, and friends...it just doesn't get any better!

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Photo Illustration: "Fresh Snow" by Brian Lane

Back Home (and getting back into the proverbial saddle)
I arrived back to our Sedona home last week, just ahead of a wonderful Arizona winter storm. I have been away since mid-September helping with family matters back in central Massachusetts. Thanks to all who sent condolences and kind thoughts. They have been much appreciated.

Now it's time to get ready to go into the canyon next month. After being unable to get out and hike much in the snowy New England winter it will be nice to get back into better physical condition - the canyon often serving as my motivation. I especially love the winter months inside the Grand Canyon! It is so quiet in January and February. So different from the throngs of people that will arrive by mid-March and into April when the moderate temperatures entice spring breakers to venture throughout its depths. Winter brings its own special kind of peace to the canyon.

Last year I reserved a cabin (thirteen months in advance) at Phantom Ranch for President's Day and will be hiking down with one of my best friends from back in Massachusetts, John Ducasse. We grew up just a few houses away from each other, and we're the same age, so we high schooled together and wreaked minor havoc upon the populace in the little hamlet of North Brookfield together growing up. We've done lots of hiking and backpacking together, and it's always great to spend some time with an old (and getting older) friend.

In Other News...
On the fifth of January Park Rangers found the body of a lone male about 300 feet below a point called The Abyss along Hermit Road. The cause of death and the identity of the individual have yet to be ascertained.

Remember that the backcountry permitting system will be changing as of February 1st, 2010. Those wanting permits that become available four months prior must submit their request in writing - individuals can no longer receive a permit in-person at the Backcountry Information Center for trips starting four months out. All requests for permits must be submitted either by mail, fax, or in person, but they will be processed by random draw beginning at 5:00 p.m. on the 1st of the month for any trip beginning four months out. For example on February 1st, 2010 they will process permits for any overnight trip inside the canyon whose start date is in the month of June, 2010. See my post of November 30th for a link to more complete information.

Icy Trails...Remember too that anyone venturing inside the canyon during these winter months should be wearing cleats or crampons to avoid a slip and fall where snow and ice has accumulated near the rim (top) of the canyon. This ice can remain present until late March. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for trail closures and updates before going into the canyon.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Snow storm begins to clear along South Kaibab Trail (photo: Brian Lane)

The first significant snow storm for this late fall season 2009 is now approaching Northern Arizona. The chance for heavy snow along the rim increases to a 90% chance this Monday evening - December 7th through Tuesday the 8th. A chance for snow is forecast to continue throughout the week.

The Inner Canyon and Phantom Ranch will see temperatures near freezing with heavy rain forecast for Monday. Remember that Inner Canyon temps run about 20 degrees warmer from those along the rim, so it rarely snows at Phantom Ranch.

It is recommended that anyone hiking into the canyon wear crampons or cleats from now until spring to avoid slipping (and falling) on (or off) the trail. If need be, they can be purchased at the General Store at Market Plaza on the South Rim.  

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Light snow near Bright Angel Lodge (photo:Brian Lane)

Highway 67 to the North Rim Closes for Winter
On November 30th, 2009 Hwy 67, the main access road to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is scheduled to close for the winter. Most services have been closed since mid-October although the Park Service does allow winter camping on the North Rim but access is restricted to entry from either an Inner Canyon Trail or by snowshoeing about 45 miles from Jacob Lake (a valid backcountry permit is required). Needless to say, few campers opt to stay on the North Rim during the winter months. The road will reopen in mid-May 2010.

Permit Procedures Will be Changing in February 2010!
As of February 1st, 2010 all forth-month-out permit requests will be processed at random. Gone will be the days of standing in line on the first day of the month, four months prior to your starting date. Even if you walk in and hand your permit request to the ranger at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC) they will put it in a pile with other written and fax requests, then they will be pulled at random after 5:00 P.M. that day. So, the days of local residents and outfitters having the advantage of going to the BIC and getting a permit on the first of the month, four months prior will be gone. For more information please read the NPS press release at: http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/news_2009-11-20_procedure_change.htm

Another Canyon Death Reported
On November 28th the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received numerous calls from park visitors that a man had fallen from the canyon rim between Mather Point and Pipe Creek Vista. The body was eventually recovered about 200 feet below the South Rim. The man had been visiting the Canyon with his son, daughter-in-law, and other extended family members. The man's name is being withheld as family is notified and few details have yet been released. The National Park Service is investigating the incident.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

View from the Rim Trail after a November snow storm.
(Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)

On October 20th my father passed away from cancer. I will be remaining in Massachusetts for a little while to help my mom, and assist in settling dad's estate. During this time I will try to post any relevant information I receive that could help Grand Canyon hikers plan and execute their forays into yon canyon. Thanks to all who have responded during these trying times.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane

My apologies, but I will be unable to post new messages for the time being as I have been called away from our home in Arizona to assist my parents in Massachusetts in dealing with various medical issues. I know this is premier hiking season for the Grand Canyon and I too had a permit to venture Rim-2-Rim during mid-October, but alas, I will be unable to make the trip.  My father has terminal cancer and Mom is frail due to Parkinson's and I will need to provide whatever assistance I can during this trying time. I wish all canyon travelers well and hope to return to regular postings as soon as possible. I hope viewers of this little blog will be understanding.

Talk to you soon...

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane