Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog

Another Inner Canyon Death Reported

BRIAN — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 14:04:15 GMT

Around 6:30 p.m. on August 28th, 2008, a commercial raft trip called to report a 62 year old male had fallen about 70 feet and had suffered serious injuries. The group was located 1 1/2 miles up along Stone Creek (near river mile marker 132 - less than two river miles south of the Lower Tapeats camp sites). A flight medic was dropped off in close proximity and a night flight rescue helicopter was being brought in, but upon arrival the medic informed the rescue team that the man had succumbed to the fall. The body was recovered via helicopter long-line operation the next day. The victim's name has not yet been released.

Catching Up!

BRIAN — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:39:48 GMT

Havasu Falls - Havasupai Tribal Lands (Photo by: Brian Lane)

Lots Going On!

Gee, I was away for ten days taking a NOLS/WMI Wilderness First Responders Course (yes, I am now officially certified) and all kinds of incidents happened!

On Sunday, August 17th a woman lost her footing near Mather Point (approx. 300 yards west of Mather - toward Yavapai Point) and fell about 25-30 feet. She suffered a lower leg fracture and was raised via rope & litter by NPS emergency responders. She was then transferred to Flagstaff Medical Center for further treatment.

Supai Closes: During this same time monsoon storms caused significant flooding to the popular Supai Canyon area of the Havasupai Tribal Lands, (including Havasu Falls), when the Redlands earthen dam broke sending water rushing into the canyon. Eight public service agencies worked together to rescue over 400 campers and residents from the area (which is about 75 air-miles from the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park). The road from Route 66 to Hualapai Hilltop (Indian Road 18) has been temporarily closed.
Supai is closed to all visitors until SPRING 2009. Please visit www.havasupaitribe.com for more details.

The park facilities for the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park are getting ready to close in mid-October. Although the North Rim Lodge will close, the NPS Visitor Center, bookstore, and backcountry office will remain open until November 30th, 2008. Highway 67, providing access to the North Rim, will remain open until snow forces its closure (the road remains unplowed throughout the winter and re-opens around mid spring). Other lodging may be available outside the park boundaries - contact the North Rim Visitor Center for more information at: (928) 638-7864.

Hermit Road Closure: The entire length of the west rim drive (Hermit Road) is now closed to all traffic - this essentially closes the Hermit Trailhead. The road construction is expected to be completed by the end of November of 2008.

Man Falls to Death at Grand Canyon

BRIAN — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:29:43 GMT

On August 8th, 2008, a 19 year old Canadian citizen named Mian Zhang fell to his death near Yaki Point (close to the South Kiabab Trailhead). Witnesses stated that Zhang was with a friend when he ventured out onto a rock outcropping and lost his footing - falling about 250 feet. The accident occurred around 12:30 p.m. and the National Park Service is conducting an investigation of the incident.

Monsoon Storms & Lightning

BRIAN — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 12:29:43 GMT

Storm Brewing - Cremation Creek, GCNP (Photo: Brian Lane)

Surviving Lightning Storms

Second only to flash floods, lightning kills more people each year in the United States than any other weather-related incident. A single bolt can carry as much as 200 million volts and can strike a person up to ten miles away from the storm front.
     To help prevent a possible lightning strike you should familiarize yourself with the local weather patterns, especially the southwestern summer monsoon season, which results in widespread afternoon thunderstorms. Avoid hiking in exposed locations like cliff edges or being near isolated tall objects like trees and metal poles during these and other stormy times.
     In order to monitor a storm front, remember that sound carries at one mile per five seconds, so if you count the number of seconds after you see a flash of lightning and divide it by five, you’ll know about how far away the storm is.
     If caught outside in a lightning storm, get to a low area that does not collect water, take off your pack, and squat low on your sleeping pad or the pack itself (for insulation). If you are in a tent, stay on your sleeping pad and do not touch the tent walls. If at any time you feel the hair rise on the back of your neck, get down quick!
     A lightning strike can accost you in many ways—a direct strike, ground current, and the blast effect, to name a few. If you or your hiking companion(s) happen to be struck by lightning they should be evacuated immediately.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Wildfire, Monsoon Storms, and such...

BRIAN — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:30:17 GMT

Mather Point, GCNP (Photo: Brian Lane)

Well the Arizona Monsoon is alive and kicking up afternoon thunderstorms across the state. The best news is that the rains have put out the wildfires that had started in the Grand Canyon region. The Walla Valley and Tiyo fires are under control but still smoldering; the Nat'l Park Service says that the amount of smoke generated by these fires has been minimal. All roads and facilities at the South & North Rims are open.

The Ten-X Campground (2 miles south of Tusayan) is now open (it had been closed due to an early season fire that occured just as the campground was set to open).

Remember that the Hermit Road (AKA: The West Rim Drive) construction continues and the road is now completely closed to all vehicles until the end of November, 2008.

November Permits Come Up for Grabs

BRIAN — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:37:07 GMT

Just a reminder that permits for Grand Canyon Backcountry trips scheduled in November 2008 are available starting tomorrow, July 1st. If you plan to hike into the Canyon this November you'll want to either drive to the Grand Canyon Backcountry Office to secure the permit or send in your permit application via mail or fax.

The Permit Request Form (a fillable PDF form) is available at: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm. Look under the "How to Apply" heading.

Remember when making plans that the North Rim is essentially closed by mid-October and the road to the North Rim could be closed by November (it is not plowed in winter).

Make sure you include alternate dates and itineraries, especially for Central Corridor Trails (mainly Bright Angel, & South Kaibab Trails; with the North Rim is closed, the North Kaibab Trail receives very little use in the winter months).

North Rim Wildfire

BRIAN — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:40:44 GMT

West Tonto Trail Overlooking Granite Rapids (photo: Brian Lane)

On June 21st Fire Managers at Grand Canyon National Park began a prescribed burn in Walla Valley (about 10-12 miles W/NW of the North Rim facilities). Yesterday (June 26th, 2008) the status of the fire was "converted" from being a prescribed burn into that of an actual wildfire. Approximately 100 firefighters have been deployed along with five fire trucks, a water tender, and a couple of helicopters. They are also requesting another heavy helicopter and four air tankers to assist in fighting this fire.

I must say, don't know why they ever choose to start prescribed burns during the Arizona wildfire season. There are currently about five wildfires burning throughout Arizona. Visibility, especially on the North Rim is sure to be affected by the Walla Valley fire. Occasionally these fires are contained by fire suppression techniques, but it usually takes rain and humidity from the Arizona Monsoon Season to extinguish these fires.

On a good note, a high pressure weather system is setting up over the Four Corners area of the Southwestern U.S., that coupled with our current hot temperatures is the usual catalyst needed to bring on the monsoon rains. Yesterday, in Sedona, we did have dark gray skies to the east and could see lots of lightning. Today I can see those familiar anvil headed thunderstorm clouds starting to build, although Arizona monsoon rains are always hit or miss.

Arizona Monsoon Season

BRIAN — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:40:23 GMT

The Arizona Monsoon Season officially began on June 15th, 2008, and will end on September 15th, 2008.

This is the first year that weather administration officials have used a set date for the beginning and ending of the Arizona monsoon. The old standard had been set by actual weather conditions; when the dew point exceeded 55 degrees for three consecutive days - the monsoon had started. So far, we have yet to even come close to the previous definition, (although we have seen an increase in afternoon clouds here in Northern Arizona lately). Nonetheless, the monsoon season will start soon enough (we hope...as we can always use the rain).

Familiarize yourself with the local weather patterns which can produce violent afternoon thunderstorms. In case of lightning, avoid hiking in exposed locations like cliff edges or being near isolated tall objects like trees and metal poles during these and other stormy times. In order to monitor a storm front, remember that sound carries at one mile per five seconds, so if you count the number of seconds after you see a flash of lightning and divide it by five, you’ll know about how far away the storm is. If caught in a lightning storm, get to a low area that does not collect water, take off your pack, and squat low on your sleeping pad (for insulation), if possible. In your tent, stay on your sleeping pad and do not touch the tent walls. If at any time you feel the hair rise on the back of your neck, get down quick!

Also, please make sure you stay out of Canyon washes during afternoon thunderstorms. Flash floods in the desert kill many people each year - thus the saying out here, "There are two ways water can kill you in the desert, by thirst or by drowning!"

Hike Safe & Have Fun!
Brian

Last Restrictions Lifted from North Kaibab Trail

BRIAN — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:41:52 GMT

Final repairs to the North Kaibab Trail were completed in early June, 2008, and all travel restrictions have been lifted. The remaining restrictions had mainly affected the concession run mule rides.

Winter storms had damaged the 3rd trail bridge north of Phantom Ranch (an area often referred to as "The Box") and most reparations were being made when, in early April, the Park Service found a series of retaining walls between Supai Tunnel and Roaring Springs had also been destroyed by winter rock falls.

The bridge repairs are only temporary and final repairs will be made this winter as creek flows decrease.

North Kaibab Trail near Ribbon Falls Looking South
(photo: Brian Lane)

Over 250 Folks Apply In Person on June 1st for October Backcountry Permits

BRIAN — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 14:27:22 GMT

I traveled up to Grand Canyon yesterday (June 2nd) to try and get permits to go Rim-to-Rim this October but was informed all the camp sites at Cottonwood Campground were already spoken for. Wanda at the Backcountry Office said there were over 250 people who had applied in person for October permits, quickly gobbling up a large portion of the camp sites along the Central Corridor route. My wife and I tried to get up to the Canyon on the 1st but had other obligations, oh well.

Anytime you apply for Backcountry Permits you should try and remain flexible, there really aren't many sites available, and the most popular areas fill up quick. You should apply on the first day of the month four months prior to your start date. For me, the easiest way to remember is to count back five months. So, for October permits 2008, count Oct, Sept, Aug, July, June - therefore apply on June 1st.

For the busiest months (Oct & Nov and April & March) they do start a waiting list sign-up 2-3 days prior to the issuing date (first of the month). You go to the Backcountry Office and are issued a number, you must then sign in again each day prior to the 1st, and be issued a new number. I guess I will be doing that next year (it seems like each year gets a little more difficult).

As it is, I grabbed a permit for Tanner Trail, later in the month of October (I really like to go when there is a nice full moon anyway!). I've done the trail twice and it has stunning views from the Cardenas Butte area.

For more info about Grand Canyon Permits and the Waitlist System visit: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm

Bright Angel Trail Update: New Toilet at Pipe Creek

BRIAN — Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:45:21 GMT

A new toilet has been installed at Pipe Creek near the junction of Bright Angel Trail and the Colorado River (officially the River Trail junction).

It is a wilderness toilet - consisting of three short walls, which enclose a large black plastic tank, the front is open. The seat is secured with a bungee type catch. Only human waste and toilet paper is allowed - and toilet paper is not provided.

The new set-up is located around the corner from the River Resthouse, about 1.5 miles from Bright Angel Campground.

Couple Reported Lost on May 27th are Located Next Day

BRIAN — Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:45:21 GMT

South Bass Canyon at the Colorado River (photo:Brian Lane)

Alan Humphrey and Iris Faraklas (husband & wife) were located last Wednesday, May 28, five days after their scheduled exit from the Canyon. The couple had a permit to backpack for seven days along the Royal Arch Route from May 17th through the 23rd. They were experienced Canyon backpackers, and although they had never traveled this route, they had researched the trail in a pretty thorough manner (including seeking advice from others who had completed the same route).

During the last leg of their excursion, they missed the turn to go up and out South Bass Trail, where they had parked their vehicle. They then continued along the West Tonto trail toward the east and attempted to climb to the rim via the wrong side-canyon (probably Serpentine Canyon).

When they had not returned at their proposed time, family members notified the National Park Service (NPS) at Grand Canyon that the hikers were overdue. By May 28th the search was in full swing including multiple ground and air crews. At about 5:00pm on that day the couple was found, hungry and tired, but otherwise in good condition, the couple refused further medical care once delivered to the South Rim NPS helipad (where they were met by family and friends).

I know friends that missed the turn to go up South Bass a few years ago while hiking the Royal Arch Route. It is an odd little trail intersection that provides two chances to pick up on the trail but is choked with brush in many areas (especially along the middle of the trail in Bass Canyon). Anyone using this route must exercise extreme caution to stay on trail.

Full details of the couple's rescue can be found at: http://nps.gov/grca/parknews/newsreleases.htm

Summer Heat is On Its Way

BRIAN — Thu, 29 May 2008 13:10:03 GMT

On May 20th, 2008 temps neared the century mark but then retreated. After a nice late May rain storm and cooling period the temperatures are set to increase this weekend. On Friday, May 30th, they should break 100 degrees around the Inner Canyon and continue up to 104 on Sunday. Then remaining in the triple digits for the foreseeable future.

Make sure you are off the trail and in the shade between the hours of 10:00am and 4:00pm! Drink plenty of fluids, including sports drinks containing electrolytes. Rest often, eat salty snacks, and take your time.

Something else I have begun to use is Sport Legs (available at sportlegs.com), a supplement in pill form designed to reduce leg cramps by curtailing lactic acid build-up. Check out their website and see what you think, they've worked for me.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Brian's TV Interview About the Book on AM Arizona - KAZT-TV

BRIAN — Mon, 26 May 2008 09:24:00 GMT

For anyone interested in hearing (and seeing) more information about my book, "Hikernut's Grand Canyon Companion," I've pasted the link to the YouTube video below. The show aired on May 2nd, 2008. Hope you enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyJZJ3U7fP0

Brian Lane
Sedona, AZ

Well, The Trip Didn't Go Exactly According to Plan...

BRIAN — Tue, 03 Jun 2008 14:17:11 GMT

Hermit Trail from the top of Cathedral Stairs looking East (photo: Brian Lane)

Even when you do nearly everything right, things can go wrong...

My trip into the Canyon started wonderfully last Friday, May 16th. I was on the trail at about 5:00am, the Canyon was cool and I headed down, arriving at Hermit Creek at about 10:00am. After spending the day at the creek I slept very well, got up at daybreak on Saturday morning and traveled over to Granite Rapids.

It was that afternoon that I began feeling nauseous. By three in the afternoon I was feeling worse and threw up. I made the decision at that time to head up to Monument Creek Camp in the early evening. Since I couldn't keep down any food or water I figured my body would keep getting weaker so getting up to the Monument would put me in position to hike the ten miles on Sunday morning over to Indian Garden and see how my body felt at that time.

I was still heaving and unable to keep anything in my system but was on the trail before 5:00am and on my way to Indian Garden. At about the halfway point I spotted two Park Rangers headed over to Monument Creek for maintenance purposes. I informed them of what was going on and they said they would radio over to Indian Garden to help ensure there was a camp space for me.

Continuing on, I finally made it into the Indian Garden Campground at about 9:00am and collapsed (after throwing up again). Every time after I would heave, I would immediately begin drinking water and Gatorade again to try and keep myself hydrated, but to know avail.

Park Ranger Della Mullin came into my campsite around 2:00pm; I had spent the day so far laid out on my therm-a-rest mattress on top of the site picnic table trying to regain my strength. She was excellent! She had been informed of my situation by the two Rangers I had seen that morning, she listened to what I said was going on with my body, asked questions, then outlined my basic options. She could take me over to the clinic at Indian Garden and administer an anti-nausea medication and probably set up an intravenous saline solution to try and get me rehydrated, but if I chose to be treated my status would turn to that of a patient and from that point evacuation would be recommended.

Since I was hemming and hawing about being pulled from my mission (to get out on my own accord) she offered to get some ice and Gatorade mix and see if I could keep it down and then monitor the situation. I drank more, some of which came right back up, and tried to see if I could get myself feeling any better. The deciding factor seemed to be that I had not been able to urinate for nearly eight hours - that one detail caused the most concern from Ranger Mullin. The major medical concerns were the chance of kidney failure or other kidney related problems including the onset of rhabdomyolysis (a condition where muscle fibers break down and toxins are released into the bloodstream).

By 3:00pm, since I still had not peed, she (and Canyon Volunteer Jan) coaxed me into packing up and heading to the clinic for treatment. Ranger Mullin set up the IV, administered the anti-nausea meds, and called for the helicopter to land at Indian Garden and fly me out to the Grand Canyon Clinic. After about 45 minutes (and nearly two large bags of saline solution) I finally peed - much to the relief of Ranger Mullin. Around 4:00pm the chopper arrived and I was flown to the South Rim, loaded into an ambulance and driven the one mile to the clinic.

Once at the clinic Dr. Michelle Doroz took over, continued more IV fluids, ran blood tests and an EKG. The blood tests showed some concern of kidney related problems so I was told that if I urinated they would release me, but asked that I return the next morning for another blood test to ensure no lasting damage. Dr. Doroz and the staff at the clinic (Kathy, Catherine, Kelly, and Amber) were all the best in their care and treatment! I finally peed again some time after 6:00pm and was released with a list of what not to eat and a bottle of Hydrolyte that I was instructed to drink that evening. Dr. Doroz also confirmed that a particularly aggressive virus had been going through the Canyon.

My blood work the next day was OK and I drove home to Sedona. The last of the bug hit me when I got home with a bad night of Montezuma's Revenge. Now two days later my energy level is back up and I'm feeling pretty much back to normal. Enough can't be said about the professionalism and proficiency of everyone involved including NPS Ranger Della Mullin (she's the best!), paramedic Brandon Torres (on the chopper flight), and Dr. Doroz and the staff at the Grand Canyon Clinic.

Thanks so much for all they do to help keep all the hikers and Canyon travelers safe and well!!!

Brian Lane

Brian at Hermit Creek - before falling ill. (photo: Brian Lane)

My Hike Into Grand Canyon Coming Up Quickly

BRIAN — Mon, 12 May 2008 13:55:10 GMT

Granite Rapids, GCNP (photo: Brian Lane)

I've been training for many months now and I'm ready to go into the Canyon on this Friday, May 16th for a five day jaunt down Hermit Trail to Hermit Creek, over to Granite Rapids, up to Monument Creek, over to Indian Garden, and out on Tuesday the 20th. The total mileage (including a side trip out to Plateau Point) will be just shy of 30 miles.

This about my 35th time into the Grand Canyon and I have done Hermit Trail about 6 times. Granite Rapids is my personal "favorite spot" in the Canyon. I will be traveling alone - not advised for first-timers on this rough, unmaintained trail - although I have leased a satellite phone ($100) for emergency use. Hermit Trail requires advanced route finding skills, especially when crossing the numerous rockslides along the mid-section of this trail.

I'll be posting new photos upon my return.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING ROAD CLOSURE INFORMATION CONCERNING HERMIT TRAIL

All backcountry permit holders hiking into the canyon via the Hermit Trail are required to use an alternate trail to complete their hike. Hikers will not be allowed to hike out via the Hermit Trail. Access to Hermit Trailhead will be limited to free early morning shuttle buses (drop off only). Restrooms are available near Hermit Trailhead.

May: A free park shuttle bus will take hikers to the Hermit Trailhead at following times (no pick-up).

May: shuttle buses will leave the Backcountry Information Center at 4:30 a.m. and 5:30 a.m.

June, July, and August: No access by foot or vehicle.

September, October, and November: park shuttle bus will take hikers to the Hermit Trailhead at following times (no pick-up).

September: shuttle buses will leave the Backcountry Information Center at 4:30 a.m. and 5:30 a.m.
October: shuttle buses will leave the Backcountry Information Center at 5:00 a.m. and 6:00 a.m.
November: shuttle buses will leave the Backcountry Information Center at 7:00 a.m. and 8:00 a.m.

Weather Forecast: Mon., May 12th - Sun., May 19th

BRIAN — Mon, 12 May 2008 13:55:10 GMT

The weather this week for the Inner Grand Canyon (Phantom Ranch) is as follows:

There is a 50% chance of showers & thunderstorms tonight (Monday) between 11:00 p.m. and 11:00 a.m. (Tuesday).

After that the clouds will pass and a high pressure area will set up over the southwest. Temperatures will rise steadily throughout the week, starting in the high 70's and increasing quickly.

The Inner Canyon may hit the century mark (100 degrees) on Sunday for the first time this year. Make sure you have plenty of water/sport drinks and salty snacks to help keep you going, and be sure you plan to be off the trail between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. (during the most extreme "triple digit" heat of the day).

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Weather Forecast: Mon, May 5th - Sun, May 11th

BRIAN — Mon, 05 May 2008 13:59:19 GMT

There is a 10% chance of showers Tuesday and Tuesday Night, other than that...

Weather will be mostly clear with days in the low 90's, and nights in the low 50's.
Mid-week wind gusts may get up to 30 mph.

X-Fire Delays Opening of Ten-X Campground

BRIAN — Wed, 30 Apr 2008 18:10:44 GMT

The X-Fire kicked up yesterday in the Kaibab National Forest and was driven by high winds (gusting to 45 mph) and low humidity (5-10%). The fire started either at or near the Ten-X Campground, near the Grand Canyon's South Rim (just southeast of Tusayan, Arizona). Current speculation is that the fire started from an abandoned campfire. Over 2,000 acres have burned so far, but as of 6:00pm on Wednesday, April 29th the fire is now 60% contained. The Ten-X Campground was scheduled to open tomorrow, (April 30th), but that opening has been delayed indefinitly.

For more information contact the Tusayan Ranger District office at 928-638-2443, Monday through Friday or Jackie Denk at (928) 635-8314. For recorded information related to Grand Canyon National Park conditions, please call (928) 638-7688. To reach a Grand Canyon National Park information technician, please call (928) 638-7922.

Snake Bite Treatment

BRIAN — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:31:58 GMT

The southwest does harbor quite a few poisonous critters, including rattlesnakes. While these are some of the most venomous creatures in the country, you'll find that they usually avoid humans. It's only by being careless that you risk injury.

First of all, don't handle snakes. I've read that in Tucson, Arizona at least one person each year is rushed to the hospital when he (the victim is usually male, young, and under the influence) is struck by a rattlesnake as he tries to kiss it - NOT SMART. Don't stick your hands or feet into or under anything where you can't see - bushes, brush, dark corners, etcetera. At night (critters preferred time for moving about) wear shoes and use a flashlight while you are up and moving about.

The only time I have ever seen a rattlesnake was while hiking in Yosemite National Park. Although you will rarely come across a rattler, care must be taken to avoid a strike. In most cases, you will hear the rattle long before you can see the snake. If you hear the buzz of a rattler, freeze immediately and (without moving your head if possible) locate the snake with your gaze. Once the snake relaxes from a striking position, slowly move away. If you are within about three feet of the snake, you are in immediate danger of a strike. Double that distance, and you should be well out of its striking range.

When suffering from a snakebite, quickly move away from the snake and stay calm. The area of the bite may swell dramatically, so remove any tight clothing or jewelry. While nearly a third of snake bites are nonvenomous, "dry" bites, you should keep the victim calm, immobilize and splint the wound, and evacuate immediately (carrying the victim if possible). Please note: The use of a Sawyer Extractor is no longer recommended for snake bites. Do not apply cold, do not give alcohol to the victim, and don't use a tourniquet.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian