Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog

March 2010 Grand Canyon Trails Update

BRIAN — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:18:00 GMT

A big horn sheep rests along Bright Angel Trail - President's Day, 2010. (Photo: Brian Lane)

March Trail Conditions...
The snow is still falling and winter conditions remain in full force, but the sun is poised to return and warm things up by mid-March. Nonetheless trailheads remain snow packed and icy for the top couple of miles, so make sure you use crampons or cleats to ensure proper footing along these slick areas. Anyone trying to access South Bass trailhead is urged to drive the old mud rutted road only between the hours of 4-7 a.m., when the road is most likely to be frozen. Even then it is recommended you travel only in a four wheel drive vehicle equipped with a shovel, towing straps, tire chains, a winch, and the like.

Inner Canyon Camps Look Full...
Nearly all backcountry areas along the South Rim are completely full in March, April, and part of May (from Tanner Trail in the east, to Royal Arch to the west). If you want camp overnight inside the canyon and do not have a permit, you should go the Backcountry Information Center and put your name on the waiting list (although it could take a couple of days before a slot opens up). A few sites usually open up each day.

Toilet Talk...
Two new bathrooms have been installed along Bright Angel Trail. One in back of Three-Mile Resthouse, and another on the trail at the junction of Bright Angel and the River Trail, near the River Resthouse.

Another pilot program has begun at Grand Canyon NP for those camping in wilderness areas with no toilets - the WAG Bag program. In short, WAG Bags are human waste disposal bags where the backcountry traveler truly packs out everything that they pack in. To learn more or to volunteer for this pilot program to go: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/waste-mgmt.htm for more information.

Phantom Trip in February...
After having canceled my Rim-2-Rim plans of last October due to a death in the family I did manage to make it back to Arizona in time to go into the canyon on President's Day with my lifelong friend, John Ducasse. We hiked down Bright Angel Trail on Monday, February 15th, checked into the cabin, cleaned up, and had the famous "hiker stew" that evening for dinner. The next day we investigated Phantom Creek, hiking up North Kaibab a couple of miles, then rock hopping across Bright Angel Creek to enter Phantom Canyon. We visited the triple waterfall and bushwhacked along the narrow canyon until we could go no more as our progress was impeded by a six, or so, foot waterfall surrounded by slickrock. We turned around, grabbed some stuff at the canteen, then stretched our legs walking along the Colorado on the River Trail. After showers we dined on the Phantom Ranch "veggie chili" at the canteen. We spent our last night at Phantom Ranch amusing ourselves (and others) as we played "Pass the Pigs" at the canteen. On Wednesday morning we hiked up on South Kaibab Trail, taking about five hours to climb out at a nice leisurely pace. The El Nino patterned weather cooperated and was just perfect! Great weather, environment, and friends...it just doesn't get any better!

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Late January 2010 Update

BRIAN — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 18:25:00 GMT

Photo Illustration: "Fresh Snow" by Brian Lane

Back Home (and getting back into the proverbial saddle)
I arrived back to our Sedona home last week, just ahead of a wonderful Arizona winter storm. I have been away since mid-September helping with family matters back in central Massachusetts. Thanks to all who sent condolences and kind thoughts. They have been much appreciated.

Now it's time to get ready to go into the canyon next month. After being unable to get out and hike much in the snowy New England winter it will be nice to get back into better physical condition - the canyon often serving as my motivation. I especially love the winter months inside the Grand Canyon! It is so quiet in January and February. So different from the throngs of people that will arrive by mid-March and into April when the moderate temperatures entice spring breakers to venture throughout its depths. Winter brings its own special kind of peace to the canyon.

Last year I reserved a cabin (thirteen months in advance) at Phantom Ranch for President's Day and will be hiking down with one of my best friends from back in Massachusetts, John Ducasse. We grew up just a few houses away from each other, and we're the same age, so we high schooled together and wreaked minor havoc upon the populace in the little hamlet of North Brookfield together growing up. We've done lots of hiking and backpacking together, and it's always great to spend some time with an old (and getting older) friend.

In Other News...
On the fifth of January Park Rangers found the body of a lone male about 300 feet below a point called The Abyss along Hermit Road. The cause of death and the identity of the individual have yet to be ascertained.

Remember that the backcountry permitting system will be changing as of February 1st, 2010. Those wanting permits that become available four months prior must submit their request in writing - individuals can no longer receive a permit in-person at the Backcountry Information Center for trips starting four months out. All requests for permits must be submitted either by mail, fax, or in person, but they will be processed by random draw beginning at 5:00 p.m. on the 1st of the month for any trip beginning four months out. For example on February 1st, 2010 they will process permits for any overnight trip inside the canyon whose start date is in the month of June, 2010. See my post of November 30th for a link to more complete information.

Icy Trails...Remember too that anyone venturing inside the canyon during these winter months should be wearing cleats or crampons to avoid a slip and fall where snow and ice has accumulated near the rim (top) of the canyon. This ice can remain present until late March. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for trail closures and updates before going into the canyon.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

First Significant Grand Canyon Snowfall for December 2009 is in the Forecast!

BRIAN — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 15:43:00 GMT

Snow storm begins to clear along South Kaibab Trail (photo: Brian Lane)

The first significant snow storm for this late fall season 2009 is now approaching Northern Arizona. The chance for heavy snow along the rim increases to a 90% chance this Monday evening - December 7th through Tuesday the 8th. A chance for snow is forecast to continue throughout the week.

The Inner Canyon and Phantom Ranch will see temperatures near freezing with heavy rain forecast for Monday. Remember that Inner Canyon temps run about 20 degrees warmer from those along the rim, so it rarely snows at Phantom Ranch.

It is recommended that anyone hiking into the canyon wear crampons or cleats from now until spring to avoid slipping (and falling) on (or off) the trail. If need be, they can be purchased at the General Store at Market Plaza on the South Rim.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

North Rim Access Highway Closes November 30th, 2009

BRIAN — Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:51:00 GMT

Light snow near Bright Angel Lodge (photo:Brian Lane)

Highway 67 to the North Rim Closes for Winter
On November 30th, 2009 Hwy 67, the main access road to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is scheduled to close for the winter. Most services have been closed since mid-October although the Park Service does allow winter camping on the North Rim but access is restricted to entry from either an Inner Canyon Trail or by snowshoeing about 45 miles from Jacob Lake (a valid backcountry permit is required). Needless to say, few campers opt to stay on the North Rim during the winter months. The road will reopen in mid-May 2010.

Permit Procedures Will be Changing in February 2010!
As of February 1st, 2010 all forth-month-out permit requests will be processed at random. Gone will be the days of standing in line on the first day of the month, four months prior to your starting date. Even if you walk in and hand your permit request to the ranger at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC) they will put it in a pile with other written and fax requests, then they will be pulled at random after 5:00 P.M. that day. So, the days of local residents and outfitters having the advantage of going to the BIC and getting a permit on the first of the month, four months prior will be gone. For more information please read the NPS press release at: http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/news_2009-11-20_procedure_change.htm

Another Canyon Death Reported
On November 28th the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received numerous calls from park visitors that a man had fallen from the canyon rim between Mather Point and Pipe Creek Vista. The body was eventually recovered about 200 feet below the South Rim. The man had been visiting the Canyon with his son, daughter-in-law, and other extended family members. The man's name is being withheld as family is notified and few details have yet been released. The National Park Service is investigating the incident.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

I'll be trying to post more.

BRIAN — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:32:00 GMT

View from the Rim Trail after a November snow storm.
(Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)

On October 20th my father passed away from cancer. I will be remaining in Massachusetts for a little while to help my mom, and assist in settling dad's estate. During this time I will try to post any relevant information I receive that could help Grand Canyon hikers plan and execute their forays into yon canyon. Thanks to all who have responded during these trying times.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane

Limited Postings for a While...

BRIAN — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:33:00 GMT

My apologies, but I will be unable to post new messages for the time being as I have been called away from our home in Arizona to assist my parents in Massachusetts in dealing with various medical issues. I know this is premier hiking season for the Grand Canyon and I too had a permit to venture Rim-2-Rim during mid-October, but alas, I will be unable to make the trip. My father has terminal cancer and Mom is frail due to Parkinson's and I will need to provide whatever assistance I can during this trying time. I wish all canyon travelers well and hope to return to regular postings as soon as possible. I hope viewers of this little blog will be understanding.

Talk to you soon...

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian Lane

September, 2009 - Grand Canyon Claims another Life

BRIAN — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 17:50:00 GMT

Horseshoe Mesa seen from the top of Grandview Trail (photo: Brian Lane)

On Wednesday, September 9th, 2009 the body of a lone male, presumed to be that of missing hiker Andrew Brunelli was found by aerial searchers in a drainage off the Tonto Plateau. Mr. BrunelliClayton, North Carolina was first reported missing on the morning of Saturday, September 5th.

It was hotel staff at the Grand Canyon Inn, in Valle, Arizona (40 miles south of the park) that alerted the Coconino County Sheriff’s Office (CCSO) on September 4th that Mr. Brunelli had not checked out of his room as scheduled and personal items were still in his room. Workers reported that Mr. Brunelli Brunelli was at 5:00 a.m. on August 31st, when he entered the park via the south entrance (Hwy 64). Further investigation revealed that Mr. Brunelli Grand Canyon.

Upon notification, the National Park Service (NPS) located the missing man's rental car at the Grandview Point parking area on September 5th. With no overnight permit and no other relative information to go on, the search initially focused on the more popular Grandview/Horseshoe Mesa/Hance Creek area of the ut to no avail, and some elements of the search were scaled back by September 8th.

As more information was received it was learned that Andrew had some previous experience day hiking the canyon. Investigators then found out from a co-worker that Mr. Brunelli

A park service helicopter crew spotted the body at 10:45 a.m., September 9th, in a drainage north of the Tonto Trail about two miles east of the South Kaibab Trail in the Pattie Butte vicinity (about 21 miles from Grandview Trailhead where his rental car was found). This area of the Tonto Plateau receives few summer visitors due to the long distances between reliable water sources, and can be difficult to navigate as the trail wends its way, up and down, across the drainages of Cremation and Lonetree (both usually dry) Creeks.

The body was retrieved via long-line operation (a fixed rope below the helicopter, as opposed to being hoisted up). The NPS and CCSO are conducting an investigation into the incident.

Inner Canyon temperatures continue to hover around the 100 degree mark, plus, this has been a DRY SUMMER in Arizona with very little precipitation during this year’s “Non-soon Monsoon.” Therefore, short-lived ephemeral springs or water sources should not be counted on to have water. Always check with the for the latest information on water availability in Grand Canyon before embarking on wilderness excursions.

To the best of my knowledge this is the sixth death of a Grand Canyon hiker this year, none of these individuals had a valid permit. Please obey the law and get a permit for overnight visits into the canyon. It costs very little and provides the NPS with vital information if, for any reason, you are reported missing.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

The Season on the Non-soon

BRIAN — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:38:00 GMT

View from Yavapai Point up Bright Angel Canyon toward the
North Rim. (Photo Illustration: Brian Lane)

Month of August Remains HOT and DRY!
The southwest has been experiencing what most meteorologists are calling a Non-soon, in lieu of our regular summer Monsoon storms. Wildfires have been a constant threat as Northern Arizona has received many lightning strikes but little precipitation to quell the lightning caused fires. The Aspen Fire, east of the North Rim Lodge, is currently the worst wildfire in the area. Smoke may be visible from the Bright Angel and Roaring Springs Overlooks along the North Rim. All roads and facilities are reported to be open at this time.

Temperatures have been fluctuating into the slightly cooler temps of late August, but the National Weather Service still predicts temperatures in the Inner Canyon to be staying into the 110 degree range through this weekend with little change in sight. Hot temps mean that hikers should take extra care to be off the trail and resting in the shade between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. - the peak hours of extreme heat.

Another Inner Canyon Fatality Reported
On Thursday, August 13th a report came in to the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center from a group of river trippers stating that a party of seven hikers was stranded about halfway down Shinumo Wash. It was relayed that the hikers had run out of water and were in need of help. It was soon reported that one member of the hiking party, an 18 year old male, had died approximately one mile up canyon from the group. The river group assisted the hikers until they could be flown out to Hwy 89 where they were assisted by emergency personnel from the Navajo Nation. Little information has yet been released and a joint investigation into the incident will soon be conducted by the Navajo Nation and the National Park Service.

Where Have I Been?
A few people emailed and asked where I've been, since there have been few postings as of late. Well, my wife, best friend, and I were up enjoying the cool, wet, and massively majestic area around Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. A hikers paradise, Banff proved to be a wonderful get away from one of the hottest Arizona summers in history. Thanks to the folks at Johnston Canyon Resort for providing a wonderful environment, as we rented a couple of small cabins there for the week. We hope to get back up there in the next few years and explore a bit more of Jasper National Park too!

Fine Art Prints Coming Soon!
Another thing that has been taking up a lot of my time recently is the introduction of my new line of fine art prints to my website. I will soon be offering some of my finest photo illustrations as fine art prints, including about 80 of my favorite landscapes from around the country. I will be printing them on 13"X19" canvas, suitable for framing, and issued in a limited edition of 500 signed prints each. The price has not yet been set, but I'm sure I can keep the price under $65.00. Check back soon at my website: www.aSenseofNature.com!

Fall Hiking Season Just Around the Corner!
Many new blog Items are sure to be posted soon, as the fall hiking season kicks into full gear by the end of September and I prepare for my own Rim-2-Rim backpack trip through the canyon in mid-October. Until then...

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Body of Missing Hiker Found on Saturday, July 25th, 2009

BRIAN — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:49:00 GMT

On the evening of Tuesday, July 21st, the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center received a call from the father of 20 year old Northern Arizona University student Bryce Gillies, reporting that his son was overdue from a hike into the Grand Canyon. Original details were sketchy since the young man did not have a permit to stay overnight in the canyon, and the number of missing hikers was unknown. The Nat'l Park Service (NPS) immediately began an extensive search effort for what was initially thought to be a group of three or four. It was reported that Bryce Gillies and others had left on their trip into the Thunder River/Deer Creek area of the canyon after reading about the excursion in a magazine.

By the next day (Wednesday) the man's car was found at the Bill Hall Trailhead, and upon contacting and questioning Mr. Gillies friends, it was determined that he entered the canyon alone. The search effort then focused on locating a lone backpacker in the Deer Creek/Thunder River area off the North Rim of Grand Canyon Nat'l Park using ground and aerial searches to try and locate the missing man.

On Friday personal items belonging to Mr. Gillies were found in the Bonita Creek drainage, including his backpack. Around 9:30 a.m. on Saturday, July 25th searchers found the body presumed to be that of Bryce Gillies off-trail at the top of a 100 foot pour-off type cliff along the Bonita Creek drainage about one-half mile from the Colorado River. It is likely that Mr. Gillies died of exposure, heat related illness, and dehydration; a common combination that has killed many a summer hiker at the Grand Canyon.

Bonita Creek (a usually dry creek) is the next drainage west of Tapeats Creek (a perennially flowing creek which is also fed by Thunder River). It is unknown at this time if Mr. Gillies became disoriented and followed a spur trail into Bonita Creek, since there are many small off-shoot trails in Surprise Valley (where the trail splits between Deer Creek and Thunder River/Tapeats Creek). or, if suffering from dehydration he knowingly attempted to hike directly toward water at the Colorado River, not knowing that water was only about a mile away at Thunder River.

If Bryce Gillies had gotten a permit (which would have cost about $25), NPS officials would have known his itinerary and could possibly have located him earlier. Plus, with a permit, the NPS would have supplied a description of the trails, along with water sources and potential hazards. Most trails outside of the Central Corridor Trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab, and North Kaibab Trails) have LITTLE TO NO SIGNAGE at all (except for a trailhead marker). All trails outside of the Central Corridor are unmaintained, require advanced route finding skills, and it is up to the canyon hiker to know their own limitations - ESPECIALLY DURING TIMES OF EXTREME HEAT.

The brain is made up predominantly of water, so when hiking in the extreme heat of the canyon without enough water your brain begins to malfunction and you begin to make very bad decisions. At THE VERY LEAST one should carry a liter or more, per hour of hiking - including electrolytes - such as Gatorade). Without the proper amount of water and food one can quickly become overcome by the canyon's hot desert environment, and inner canyon temperatures at this time of year are about 100-115 degrees in the shade. Shade and/or water are few and far between, especially in the area where Mr. Gillies was hiking.

This is the second death at Grand Canyon this month. Condolences go out to the family and friends of Bryce Gillies for their loss.

Hike Smart or pay the consequences...
Brian

Mid-July 2009 Update

BRIAN — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:51:00 GMT

Yaki Point (Photo: Brian Lane)

1st Excessive Heat Warning of 2009
In mid-July of 2004 a 25 year old medical student from Falmouth, MA died inside the Grand Canyon from heat stroke and dehydration. Margaret Bradley had recently finished 30th in the 2004 Boston Marathon, was in excellent physical condition and in the prime of her life. Her mistake was in believing that she could outrun the canyon’s midday temperatures of over 105 degrees in the shade with little water.

Although criteria varies from state to state, an Excessive Heat Warning is usually issued by the National Weather Service (NWS) when temperatures are forecast to exceed 105 degrees, in the shade, for more than 3 hours per day, for 2 or more consecutive days, or if the heat index is forecast to exceed 115 degrees - the kind of extreme summer heat that is considered life threatening.

These temperatures are forecast during the next few days (possibly weeks) for Inner Canyon areas, including Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Remember that about 80 percent of SAR’s (search & rescue missions) at Grand Canyon National Park are due to heat related causes because of these intense desert temperatures.

What can be very deceiving for many people is when summer temps are in the 90’s on the South Rim, while inside the Grand Canyon at the Colorado River it is cooking at about 110 degrees or higher. No matter how good your conditioning and training regimen may be, these extreme temperatures will be debilitating unless you are fully prepared for it. Read the book Death in Grand Canyon, it illustrates this point to a tea.

Personally, I have never hiked inside the canyon between mid-May and late September, but if you must, please make sure you carry at least four to six liters of water going into the canyon, and you’ll need twice that coming back out. Make sure you are off the trail during the hours of most intense heat, between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. During times of high heat find shade and hunker down. Use Bright Angel Trail to access the Inner Canyon, at least there are shade areas and available water. Stay off of the South Kaibab Trail, since it has no water and very little shade. Consider hiking at night, and if you get hot, wet yourself down to cool quickly, and wear cotton as it drys slowly and helps keep you cooler longer. Always utilize electrolyte containing water additives (Gatorade and such), and eat salty snacks.

Although officially it is Arizona Monsoon Season – we haven’t really seen it yet in Northern Arizona. Afternoon clouds have been forming but there has been little moisture in the atmosphere, mostly virga. Never heard of virga? It is a common sight in the desert where you see the streams of moisture pulling down and away from clouds, yet no rain actually reaches the ground. This occurs when the atmosphere is so dry that rain turns to vapor before hitting the earth.

Man Drives Car into Canyon near El Tovar Lodge (think Chitty Chitty Bang Bang without the magic car)
On July 13th at about 6:00 a.m. visitors reported that a blue passenger car had just driven over the edge and into the canyon near El Tovar Lodge. The vehicle was caught up in some pine trees 600 feet below the South Rim and park officials eventually accessed the wreckage and located the lone male who had died in the incident. Eyewitnesses stated the male driver had driven his vehicle across the lawn area between Thunderbird and Kachina Lodges before going over the canyon’s edge. It appears to be a "Thelma & Louise" type of suicide, while the Park Service has only stated the incident is under investigation.

Grand Canyon Resident-Climber Does Not Defy Gravity
A Grand Canyon resident was on a recreational climb of Newton Butte on Monday, July 6th around 8:00 p.m. when he slipped and fell about 50 feet. Newton Butte is about 1.5 miles north of Shoshone Point. The man was rescued via short-haul operation and treated for non-life-threatening injuries to both legs. The individual’s name has not yet been released.

Hantavirus Kills River Runner
A Minnesota woman in her early 50’s passed away on June 12th, 2009 from what is confirmed by the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) as Hantavirus. She had recently been on a river rafting expedition in the Grand Canyon, where it is supposed that she contracted the disease. This is the first case of Hantavirus reported in the area since 2007. The virus is spread by rodents and infection occurs from breathing in small particles of urine or droppings from wild rodents. When camping in backcountry areas of the Grand Canyon try not to stir up a lot of dust, use a tent with a floor, and keep a clean camp to help avoid exposure.

Thank You to Everyone Who Stopped by During My Book Signing
I had my first book signing at Grand Canyon Nat'l Park on Saturday, June 27th. Thanks go out to all who took the time to stop by and say hello, especially those who purchased a copy of the book! Thanks also to the Grand Canyon Association for sponsoring the event, and to Diane and Konrad who worked at the store during the signing.

I haven’t been blogging much lately, as this really is not the season for most canyon backpackers, (save for a few crazy people). Even sales of my book slump a bit at this time of year as the thought of hiking inside an easy bake oven does not seem to appeal to the sane and well informed. Plus I will soon be getting away for a short time, hiking in the Canadian Rockies for the first time! Please re-visit the blog in mid-August and check out my brief trip report when I return.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Arizona Monsoon Season 2009

BRIAN — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 15:51:00 GMT

Yaki Point with Cliff Rose (Photo: Brian Lane)

Monsoon Season is here…sort of…

The 2009 Arizona Monsoon Season officially began on June 15th. That doesn't mean it’s going to rain any time soon. Since last year, instead of the monsoon beginning after three consecutive days with dew points over 55 degrees, the National Weather Service now officially schedules the Arizona Monsoon season from June 15th through September 30th. Although forecasters have said they believe the early Monsoon will include above average precipitation, it does not look like we will be rained upon, at least in the next week or so. There is still a slight chance of rain in the forecast.

Normal monsoon thunderstorms kick up when a high pressure system sets up over the four corners region of the Southwest and temperatures get hot, very hot. With the high pressure in place and daytime temperatures heading over one hundred degrees, moist air gets sucked up from the south, causing what can turn into, intense and lightning dense thunderstorms.

If you are on the rim of the Canyon during afternoon storms, head inside and wait out the worst of the storm. Luckily if you are caught outside at the bottom of the Grand Canyon lightning risks are only slight, as lightning opts to hit the easier reaches of the elevated and often struck rims. If you are ever caught out on the rim in a thunder and lightning storm, and you feel the hair stand up on the back of your neck, quickly get down into a squatting position, (and prayer wouldn't hurt).

The HOT Temperatures are Back!

By this weekend, June 20th, 2009, the Nat’l Weather Service (NWS) is forecasting temps in the inner canyon’s Phantom Ranch area to hit close to 110 degrees in the shade. While we in the Southwest have thoroughly enjoyed the wonderfully cool temperatures we've had during the last month, we knew it had to end. And it is going to hit fast.

For the purpose of strategic redundancy, I’ll say it once again…BE SURE you are not out hiking in the Inner Canyon between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Hiking inside the canyon during the hottest time of the day, and you are asking to succumb to a heat related injury.

South Kaibab Trail Work
The Nat’l Park Service (NPS) has announced that they will begin (I actually thought they had already begun) scheduled trail work along the South Kaibab Trail. Work will include rebuilding steps, resurfacing, and replacing retaining walls along this popular trail. The trail reconstruction project will take two to four years to complete, and the trail will remain open during this reconstruction effort, (although occasional delays may occur). Mule and other stock traffic will be temporarily diverted to Bright Angel Trail during the reconstruction effort.

Fires Close the Arizona Trail at Grand Canyon
Two lightning caused fires are converging. The Ruby Fire and the Game Reserve Fire have been steadily merging and will now be combined and managed as the Ruby Complex Fire. A few days ago the Ruby Fire had reached the Arizona Trail, forcing a four mile section of the trail to be closed from Grandview Trailhead to Watson Tank. The NPS reports that there have been minimal impacts to Canyon views, although the smoke is clearly visible from Highways 64 and 180, and in some areas of the park.

As always, please remember to - Hike Smart & Have Fun !
Brian

Early June '09 Update

BRIAN — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 18:13:00 GMT

Moran Point, South Rim (photo: Brian Lane)

Lots of News...

October 2009 Permits Come Up for Grabs
I know, I know; I have been remiss in posting a new blog entry - but, hey - I spent a few days at the Canyon securing a permit to go Rim-2-Rim in October, and I'm just getting back into the 'shwing' of things.

Last year I drove up to the Canyon on June 2nd and sites were already sold out for October. So this year my wife and I drove up on Saturday, May 30th, arriving at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC) around 4:30 p.m. I was given number 59 in line for permits being issued on June 1st, 2009, for overnight stays inside the Canyon during the month October 2009. On Sunday morning everyone already issued a number, that was still interested in getting a permit, checked in at 8:00 a.m. just outside the BIC. Due to attrition I was bumped up in line and drew number 50. Then on Monday morning, June 1st, at 8:00 a.m. they open three windows at the BIC to process permits. One window is reserved for folks who want a permit to go into the Canyon in the next few days, the other two windows are used to process permits for potential October backpackers. The process went pretty smoothly - the biggest complaint being a concern that private guides had paid locals to get numbers for the permit line several days in advance, and getting multiple permits, which initially slowed the processing down and ate up the number of available sites at the most precious camps. By the time my number was called I was able to secure the specific dates I wanted, and had spent a delightful weekend taking pictures along the South Rim of the world's most spectacular canyon. Rumor has it that next year the NPS at Grand Canyon may go to a lottery type system for backcountry permits. We'll see.

Thanks to Hans & Jen from Tucson, new friends I met while standing in the permit line. It was great meeting you both, and getting to talk with you made the chore of waiting much more enjoyable. Another hello goes out to Ron Ramsey, a fellow Sedonan I recognized on Sunday morning. It was great to see you again; I want to see some of your canyon photos sometime.

Supai Opens
On June 1st, 2009, Supai Village finally opened its proverbial doors to the public after last August's horrific flood which caused most of the village, and all of the visiting tourists to be evacuated by helicopter when an old earthen dam broke miles away up on the canyon rim during a monsoon rain storm. The massive wall of water tore down into Havasu Canyon wiping out many sections of the trail and nearly all of the campground. It also reshaped the world renowned waterfalls, completely destroying Navajo Falls while creating two new and distinct waterfalls which are yet to be named. The re-opening was also delayed for a month by the Havasupai Tribe due to the H1N1 (Swine) Flu outbreak. Jamie Compos has some of the first photo I've seen on his website at: www.downthetrail.com. Look under the Recent Posts link.

Weather
We in the Southwest have been given a wonderful reprieve from the hot temps of early May. Phoenix broke the record for consecutive days over 100 degrees in the first half of May, and we all braced for a hot, hot summer. Then, weather came in from California and it actually rained! May is usually one of our driest months, so nearly three inches of rain in Northern Arizona was a wonderful and unexpected treat. Since that time the Southwest has stayed consistently about ten degrees below average. We've been having a kind of pre-monsoonal odd pattern of sunny mornings with clouds building in the afternoons, and a slight chance of thunderstorms that decreases around sunset. While Inner Canyon temperatures are now mid-80's, with nights in the 60's, it looks like temps will be heading back into the 100's next week (mid-June). Those venturing into the Canyon should be prepared for temperatures to return to normal soon, that means Canyon hikers should be off the trail during the hottest time of day (10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.), or risk succumbing to heat related illness.

Fires
The May rains have helped keep the wildfires to a minimum so far during this fire season. That said, there are a few, small, lightning caused fires currently being monitored. One on the North Rim near Point Imperial, and two in the Grandview area of the South Rim. Smoke will be visible in these areas until the fires are completely extinguished.

Man Dies on Hermit Trail
Robert Williams of Surprise, Arizona was reported missing on May 26th after not returning home from a Memorial Day weekend at the Canyon. The body of the 69 year old man was subsequently found on June 2nd, about 200 feet below Hermit Trail, approximately a quarter mile south of Santa Maria Spring. Searchers had focused on Hermit Basin after receiving tips from other hikers and visitors. The cause of death has yet to be determined.

Woman Falls at Mather Point
A 38 year old, un-named woman was rescued on June 4th after falling about 50 feet from one of the Mather Point viewing areas. Mather Point is the busiest, and most congested areas at Grand Canyon National Park and the accident was reported by at least two witnesses who saw the woman fall. She was lifted via litter and rope haul, and transported to the Flagstaff Medical Center for non-life-threatening injuries.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

North Rim Opens 2009 (and other Mid-May Updates)

BRIAN — Mon, 18 May 2009 18:07:00 GMT

South Bass Beach (photo: Brian Lane)

I'm a little late on this entry as my 'puter croaked last week after downloading a graphics driver update, it had to be wiped clean, so it's just like starting over again, fresh and clean as a whistle. Oh well, here are some of the recent goings on at the Canyon...

North Rim Opens
On last Friday, May 15th, at 7:00 a.m., the gate was unlocked, allowing visitors onto Route 67, the main access road to the North Rim. All facilities are now open and will remain so until October 15th, 2009. Lodging reservations at the North Rim can be made through Forever Resorts by calling (877) 386-4383 or by visiting their website at www.grandcanyonforever.com. The North Rim is a much different experience than the hectic South Rim, seeing about one-tenth the amount of visitors. Although the facilities close in mid-October the Park Service continues operating the North Rim Visitor Center, the bookstore, and the Backcountry Permit Office through November 30, (unless snow closes Highway 67 before that date).

Prescribed Fires
The South Entrance into Grand Canyon Nat'l Park could be quite smoky due to some prescribed burn type fires going on in the area. We are being told that these fires could continue for many weeks.

Summer Type Heat is Here
Temperatures for the Inner Canyon are currently in the 100-110 degree range, although they may moderate a bit as there is a possibility of passing storms this week. With summer temps coming on strong be sure to be off the trail between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. or risk overheating, (and the very real possibility of succumbing to heat exhaustion or heat stroke). Deaths occur every year from heat exposure as people do not realize that when temps on the Rim are in the 90's the temperatures are 20 degrees hotter along the Inner Canyon. Anyone venturing into the Canyon in the summer should consider hiking at night to protect from heat related illnesses.

Canyon Water Availability
All available water along the Central Corridor Trails (Bright Angel, South Kaibab, & North Kaibab Trails), including water at the trailheads, has now been turned on. With little rain in the Southwest recently, ephemeral water supplies in the greater canyon area should not be relied upon. Contact the Backcountry Information Center for water availability on remote trails and canyons.

Bodies Recovered from Colorado River
Two bodies were recovered from the river on Thursday afternoon, May 14th. The bodies are presumed to be those of 16 year-old Saif Savaya, and 22 year-old Joey Merrill. These were the other two, of three, who inexplicably jumped into the Colorado River on April 30th, 2009, near the Black Bridge, across form the Phantom Ranch Boat Beach. The bodies were found a few river miles west of Boucher Rapids, over ten miles from where they had entered the river. One was found by private boaters, and the other, approximately 2.5 miles down river from the first, was found by a commercial river expedition. Please read earlier posts for more information on this tragic occurrence.

As always...
Hike Smart and Have Fun!

Brian

Mule Accident on Bright Angel Trail Injures One

BRIAN — Thu, 07 May 2009 17:40:00 GMT

A 66 year old woman from California on a scheduled over night mule trip to Phantom Ranch was injured on Bright Angel Trail at about 9:00 a.m. on Tuesday, May 5th. A mule wrangler with Xanterra (the authorized mule concessioner), reported that the mule had lost its footing and had fallen, rolling over the female rider in the process. The accident happened about a half mile up the trail from the Three Mile Resthouse. The patient was airlifted via a short haul from the Canyon and flown to Flagstaff Medical Center for treatment of her injuries. Bright Angel Trail was closed for about one hour during the rescue operation. The extent of the victim's injuries are unknown.

Brian

Follow-Up on Three People Missing in the Colorado River

BRIAN — Thu, 07 May 2009 17:08:00 GMT

It was reported last Thursday (April 30th) that three individuals had jumped into the Colorado River near the Boat Beach at Phantom Ranch. One body was found on Friday, May 1st, about one mile downstream from the Boat Beach. The body has been identified as 16 year old Mark Merrill. Still missing and presumed dead are his 22 year old brother Joey Merrill, and 15 year old Saif Savaya.

The individuals were members of a church group of about thirty people on an annual 3-day hike trip into the Grand Canyon from the Tri-City Baptist Church in Tempe, Arizona. Soon after the incident, the other members of the group returned to Tempe. No details or explanations have yet been given as to the circumstances for these tragic and needless deaths.

Wearing no wet suits and without personal flotation devices of some kind, anyone entering into the swift current of the Colorado River, (with water temperatures between 45- 50 degrees), are almost certainly facing death. The Park Service employed a massive search effort along ten river miles, from the Boat Beach to Hermit Rapids, to no avail. Late Saturday (May 2nd) the active search had been scaled back to a recovery effort.

Thoughts and prayers go out to the family members as many questions remain as to how and why these young men entered the river and ultimately perished.

Brian

Search Underway for Three People Missing in the Colorado

BRIAN — Fri, 01 May 2009 17:57:00 GMT

View from the Black Bridge across the Boat Beach toward the Silver Bridge (photo: Brian Lane)

Three individuals who were reported to have jumped into the Colorado River at about 8:45 a.m. on Thursday, April 30th, 2009, have yet to be found. Two emergency calls were received by the Grand Canyon Regional Communications Center at Grand Canyon Nat'l Park. One call emanated from Phantom Ranch and the other from the Boat Beach emergency phone at the confluence of the Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek. Witnesses said they had seen three people jump into the Colorado River near the Boat Beach. They were last seen being swept downriver.

After being interviewed by Park Service investigators, the group that was hiking with the missing individuals, (including family members), were flown back up to the South Rim. They were reportedly with the individuals at the time of the accident, but no additional information has been made publicly available, save for the statement that none of the three were wearing personal flotation devices.

One should NEVER attempt to swim the Colorado River, or enter into the river much further than ankle deep. Although rather placid looking in the Boat Beach area, the Colorado River is a massive and swift moving river, which maintains a cold temperature of about 50 degrees due to the Glen Canyon Dam where water is released from the more frigid bottom of the dam. Hypothermia can quickly set in, draining a person's energy. And even if someone makes it to a bank of the river there are few access points where someone could climb out.

The Park Service is currently conducting what sounds like a massive search - employing search units on foot, in zodiac boats, by air, and including search dogs. Hopes and prayers go out to all those involved.

Brian

May, 2009 Updates

BRIAN — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:23:00 GMT

View near the Tonto Trail between South Kaibab & Bright Angel Trails. Bright Angel Canyon and Phantom Ranch can be seen on the left, while the Kaibab (Black) Bridge crosses the river near the center of the photo. (Photo: Brian Lane)

Overview
Inner Canyon temperatures are fluctuating between wonderfully pleasant and hot. The difference being day and night temps - days in the mid-nineties, with nights near 60 degrees. This weekend may bring thunderstorms on Saturday as the Nat'l Weather Service is setting the chance for rain at 60 percent. The heat will soon return with temps near 100 degrees by mid-week (May 6th, 2009).

Havasupai Still Closed Until June 1st
Havasu Canyon will remain closed until (at least) June 1st, 2009. The Havasupai Tribe recently announced that the Havasu area will stay closed during the month of May due to the Swine Flu outbreak. The canyon has been closed since the flood of last August which wiped out large portions of the trail and campground. It had been scheduled to reopen on May 1st.

Good Trail Eats - The Backcountry Bar
I recently purchased a few of Karie Jean - The Cookie Queen's Backcountry Bars for my recent trip into the Canyon. I have to say that they are the best tasting energy bars I have ever had. Tasting like a nutty peanut butter cookie with ingredients including: rolled oats, peanut butter, brown sugar, mixed dried fruit, mixed nuts, eggs, butter, pumpkin kernels, sunflower, flax, and sesame seeds, honey, baking soda, and vanilla, they are an excellent source of nutrition for Canyon hikers. They do have a higher fat content than Cliff Bars, but oooh, the taste. Try them out, I don't think you'll be disappointed. For more info visit Karie Jean's website at www.cookie-queen.com.

Hiker Rescued from Grandview Trail
On April 29th,2009, a 47 year old hiker from Ohio traveling down the Grandview Trail stopped to check out the view, lost his balance and fell about 60 feet. He and his companions were several hundred feet down the trail, headed for their designated camp at Cottonwood Creek (west of Grandview) when the mishap occurred. The accident happened about 3:20 p.m. and a visitor at the trailhead heard their calls for help and notified the Park Service. The man was air lifted from the Canyon; his injuried are not known at this time.

NPS paramedic Bonnie Taylor with injured Ohio man during the short-haul rescue operation. (NPS Photo)

As Always...
Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Late April Update

BRIAN — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 17:28:00 GMT

Redbud Tree in Bloom - Side Canyon off Bright Angel Trail
(photo by Brian Lane)

Overview
The Canyon has dried out for the most part as any remaining vestiges of snow have melted away from nearly all trails, save for the top portions of North Kaibab and a few small icy spots along Grandview, New Hance, and Tanner Trails. Phoenix hit 102 degrees a couple of days ago, this is about three weeks earlier than average, and a quick reminder of the summer heat soon to come. Temperatures have moderated a bit and a brief storm may hit Northern Arizona this weekend, dropping temps even further, with night time temps around the freezing mark on the South Rim, but with only a slight chance of showers. Inner Canyon temperatures will then rebound into the 80's during the last week of April and into May.

Drinking Water Along the Central Corridor (Bright Angel, South Kaibab & North Kaibab Trails)
As of April 23rd, drinking water is only available at 3-Mile Resthouse on Bright Angel Trail, at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground, Cottonwood Campground, and Roaring Springs Day Use Area. No water is ever available along South Kaibab Trail. Hikers should always carry some kind of water purification method or device, since water pipe breaks can occur at any time of the year.

Other Backcountry Water Sources
Many ephemeral springs are still flowing in the backcountry, but as we move toward summer they will quickly dry out. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for water availability updates since most remote water sources, other than the Colorado River, can never be depended upon.

North Rim Scheduled to Open Soon
Barring any unforeseen circumstances Highway 67 to the North Rim is expected to re-open on May 15th, 2009. All services and facilities should be operating by that time - but until then the North Rim of Grand Canyon Nat'l Park is not accessible to vehicles.

www.aSenseofNature.com
Please visit my website to see the changes! A whole new site has been rolled out with many added features. Although there are still some changes to be made, it is a breath of fresh air in comparison to the old clunky site. Thanks go out to Mitch Daugherty of Morange Design for all the work putting the site together! Clicking on the orange colored "Grand Canyon Hiker's Blog" heading above will open a new window to the new and improved site.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

Tonto Trip - April 18-19, 2009

BRIAN — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 17:13:00 GMT

Plateau Point Sunset (photo by Brian Lane)

Last Sunday I enjoyed a relatively easy one night jaunt into the Canyon with friend and award-winning photographer Larry Lindahl (www.LarryLindahl.com). We wanted to take some photographs of cactus in spring bloom along the Tonto Plateau between South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trail, and then out to Plateau Point for sunset photos. Camping one night at Indian Garden gave us time to rest while providing a pleasant hike out along Bright Angel Trail on Monday morning.

While the plan was sound, the cactus proved uncooperative. We were about a week early for the most prolific blossoms, as the prickly pear cacti were ripe but had few open blooms. But it didn’t really matter, it was a beautiful day and we made our way over toward Indian Garden, out to Plateau Point for sunset, and subsequently enjoyed a cool and pleasant hike up Bright Angel Trail the next morning.

I took plenty of photos, as did Larry, during this quick overnight trip. And it was a nice journey, with no rushing about, the kind of trip that we both had hoped to enjoy. It allowed us to savor the Canyon while poking around its vast landscapes, taking in all the Grand Canyon has to offer.

Some highlights of the trip included sunset at Maricopa Point the night before descending into the Canyon, the descent down South Kaibab, finding two stone "alters" while hiking around the plateau off the Tonto Trail, a huge freshly leaved cottonwood tree at Burro Creek, lunch at Pipe Creek, sunset at Plateau Point, a fully bloomed redbud tree in a side canyon off Bright Angel Trail, and talking with folks as we hiked out. And as always, I appreciated Larry’s company. After years of solo hiking in the Canyon it is great to have a compatible hiking partner, while at the same time hiking with others has helped to relieve the anxiety my wife would normally feel when I was traveling alone in the Canyon.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian

April is here...a busy time at the Canyon!

BRIAN — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 19:33:00 GMT

West Tonto Trail with Prickly Pear Cactus (photo:Brian Lane)

Temperatures...
It has been very windy as of late, with wind gusts reported up to 60 mph in Northern Arizona. Inner Canyon temperatures will be in the 70's up to the mid-80's during the day as the heat starts to build toward summer's hot, hot temps. Overnight temps will hover around mid-40's with a chance of freezing still in the forecast during colder spells. There is still a good chance of snow on the Rim as a few scattered storms are on the weather horizon.

Trail and Road Conditions...
Grandview, New Hance, and Tanner Trails still have sporadic snow and ice in their upper reaches. All other South Rim trails are snow free at this time, although ice may reform after night temps refreeze muddy or watery areas. North Kaibab Trail is snow packed from the Rim to below Supai Tunnel. Highway 67 with access to the North Rim is still closed and will reopen on May 15th, 2009. There is access to the South Bass Trailhead as the road is reported to be dry, but deeply rutted. Those trying to get to the trailhead for Deer Creek, Thunder River, and Monument Trail will find the road impassable in sections due to snow and ice accumulation.

Drinking Water...
The only potable water available in the Canyon is at Indian Garden, Bright Angel, and Roaring Springs. All other sources are still shut off for the winter. Springs and creeks have been flowing with snow melt but may begin to show signs of slowing as precipitation has curbed as of late. The National Park Service (NPS) has released a public notice concerning water turbidity (siltation and other floaties in the water) due to the spring snow melt. This is an annual event and the NPS says that it should pose no health problems.

South Kaibab Shuttle Bus...
The Hiker Express Shuttle to South Kaibab Trailhead is running at 6:00, 7:00, and 8:00 a.m. during April. This shuttle can be boarded at the Bright Angel Lodge Bus Stop or in front of the Backcountry Information Office. Otherwise hikers can use the regular buses to gain access to the trail.

Tusayan to Grand Canyon Nat'l Park Shuttle Bus Pilot Program Announced...
The NPS has announced a new shuttle bus program between the town of Tusayan (just south of the park entrance on Hwy 64) and the Canyon View Information Plaza. The free service will be available between May 16th through September 13th, 2009. Buses will be running every 15 minutes between the hours of 8:00 a.m. and 9:30 p.m. There will be four bus stops in Tusayan including the IMAX Theater, the Squire Inn, Grand Canyon Airport, and Canyon Flight Trading Company.

South Kaibab Trail Reconstruction...
Beginning in May, the NPS will be working on the South Kaibab Trail including trail resurfacing, retaining wall maintenance, trail stabilization and preventative maintenance, and other issues. The work is scheduled to continue for two to four years. The trail should remain open during this time.

Mule Dies on Black (Kaibab) Bridge...
In sad news, it has been reported that a mule passed away while crossing the Black Bridge on Saturday, April 4th, 2009. Visitors stated that the mule was part of passenger service just heading up the Canyon from Phantom Ranch. The mule died on the bridge and was airlifted via helicopter out of the Canyon. By all accounts the passenger was uninjured and was provided a free helicopter ride (including their spouse) out of the Canyon. It is unclear whether or not they were strapped to the dead mule or provided a separate helicopter.

Hike Smart & Have Fun!
Brian